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 Oregon Caves
Early explorations of the Oregon Caves.
Note that while the official year of discovery of the cave is 1874 (sometimes 1873), local newspapers don't mention it until 1877--when those writers say it was discovered in 1875 or 1876. A JOSEPHINE COUNTY CAVE.
WILLIAMS CREEK, JOSEPHINE CO., July 26.
TO THE EDITOR OF THE OREGONIAN:Having just returned from a visit to one of Southern Oregon's great natural wonders, I hasten to send you a brief description of the same. Two years ago, Mr. E. J. Davidson, one of the most adventuresome and successful mountaineers and hunters of this region, while in pursuit of a deer he had wounded and was following with his dog, accidentally stumbled upon the discovery of what he took to be the mouth of a cave, and which conjecture has since proven to be correct. The discovery was made on the spur of a mountain familiarly known out here as "Old Grayback," and on the side that is drained off toward Sucker Creek or Illinois River. It was not till July 5, 1877, however, that an attempt at exploration of this subterranean cavern was made. Then the discoverer, in company with his brother, Carter Davidson, and James Nail, undertook to penetrate its mysterious and marvelously beautiful apartments. Aided by pitchlight, they were able to penetrate only two or three of the most accessible chambers, which intensified without satisfying their curiosity, but their supply of illuminating material having become exhausted, they were compelled to desist. It was on the strength of the report made by these parties, and at the desire of the discoverer of the cave, that, in company with a party of ladies and gentlemen of Williams Creek, the undersigned visited this spot where "nature thrones sublimity" in glistening if not in "icy halls." But to describe the trip fully, I had best commence with the commencement. Our party consisted at the start of but six, to wit: Miss Eudora A. Godfrey, Miss Margaret Davidson, of Portland; Mr. Julius Goodwin, two boys and this deponent. We traveled up the right-hand fork of Williams Creek to its head, thence across one or two streams that run westerly into Sucker Creek, then up to a large mountain that puts out from Grayback to the milk ranch of Messrs. Goodwin & Davidson. Here we camped for the night and partook of the kind hospitalities of these certainly highly elevated and obliging dairymen. The next morning our party was increased by the addition to our numbers of Mrs. Julius Goodwin, Mr. Frank Rose and E. J. Davidson. Of our party were, also, two young lads, named David John, jr., and Ira Sparlin. To the place we wished to reach was only about 1½ miles from the milk ranch, but owing to the ruggedness of the route and the course we took to get there we were fully three hours in reaching it with our riding animals. Soon after we reached the scene of operation, however, the work of exploration began and was entered upon by each member of our party with a zeal and enthusiasm that meant business. From the mouth of the cave emerges a branch of water, and it is up to the bed of this stream we first begin our underground perambulations. The mountain is of limestone formation, and the caverns and cross-caverns , in almost every form imaginable and unimaginable, which we beheld with delightful amazement, were evidently the result of the action of water. After penetrating perhaps one hundred yards, we leave the stream to examine upper and side rooms that do not require so much exposure of the feet to water. Every successive department reached evoked from each and every member such vociferative expressions as "Oh! Oh!! Oh!!! Isn't it nice," "Isn't [it] beautiful," etc., and one of the earliest convictions that overcame us most completely was that it would be impossible for us in the short period of our stay to do anything like justice to the examination of these diversified, fantastic and indescribable realms of the underworld. Prentice's ode to Mammoth Cave has now a much clearer meaning: "Crystal founts,
Almost invisible in their serene
are
expressions admirably suited to a description of this Josephine County
cave. The stalagmite and stalactite formations of this cave surpass
anything ever dreamed of in the sphere of arts, and nothing I ever
beheld in nature before so completely overcame me with suggestions of
sublimity and beauty.And pure transparency--high pillared domes With stars and flowers all fretted like the halls Of Oriental monarchs--" In some places the floor is almost as smooth as polished marble, and in others the ceiling is frescoed all over with bright crystals or stalactite in the shape [of] and resembling icicles. In one chamber in particular, which we casually designated the King's Palace, was this the case. The various members of our party commenced here, in obedience to a very natural impulse, to break off specimens to bring away with them, but in obedience to a suggestion that it looked like a shame to desecrate or deface anything in nature so beautiful as that was, they readily ceased the work of spoliation; and let us hope that future tourists and adventurers will be governed by the same honorable deference and spare this apartment if none of the others. A volume might be written descriptive of the beauties of the small portion we beheld, which portion did not comprise one-tenth--perhaps one ten-thousandth--part of these "Dim and awful aisles."
One
great danger to be constantly guarded against is that of getting lost.
Frequently we lost our way and got into narrow crevices, through which
we could see a light in some lower apartment, but could not reach it
without retracing our steps and finding some larger crevice. What could
be explored by enlarging some of these narrow fissures is a matter of
conjecture. The furthest back any of our party got was perhaps not over
four hundred yards. To make that distance through its various angles,
dips and ascents required nearly an hour's travel after we were
familiar with the route. We did not try to follow up the main stream of
water, which undoubtedly must constitute the main part of the cave, but
have left lots of work for future explorers. Our party obtained many
beautiful and valuable specimens as souvenirs of their very hard
and--for the ladies--dangerous journey. Many of the prettiest things,
however, were spoiled in breaking them off. Some were like a mule's ear
in shape, only three or four times as large and in places perfectly
transparent. The ears of many of the animals were represented on the
walls, together with many varieties of sea shells; and then again
clusters of grape, flowers and many varieties of vegetables. These
attractions, though, will rapidly disappear as the place becomes
frequented by visitors.We named the cave, in honor of the finder, "Elijah's Cave." It is situated in the southern part of the county, about 15 miles southwest of Williamsburg, or say 37 miles in the same direction from Jacksonville. A better route than the one we traveled can probably be found, when sightseers can reach the cave without roughing it as we did. It is a sight, however, well worth many times the trouble we encountered in reaching it, to anyone who has a particle of admiration for the sublime and beautiful. Yea, "beautiful are all the thousand snow-white gems that lie in these mysterious chambers." WM. W. FIDLER.
Oregonian, Portland, August 1, 1877, page 1 This account was reprinted in the September 1922 issue of the Oregon Historical Quarterly, pages 270-273The discovery of an immense cave is reported from Josephine County. "Brief Mention," Democratic Times, Jacksonville, August 3, 1877, page 3 A LARGE CAVE.--An immense underground recess, several hundred yards in extent, was recently discovered fifteen miles southeast of Williamsburg, Josephine County, by a party of ladies and gentlemen. Hon. W. W. Fidler was one of the number, and furnishes an extended account of the discovery. A stream of water issues from the mouth, and many of its compartments are described as wondrously beautiful. The party partially explored its depths, but much of its extent is yet unknown and remains for future explorers. Democratic Times, Jacksonville, August 10, 1877, page 3 A TRIP TO THE MOUNTAINS.
WILLIAMS CREEK, July 29, 1877.
EDITOR TIDINGS:--Lest
the reading public may come to imagine there is no spot worth visiting
on account of its great natural wonders and mountain scenery in
Southern Oregon, except the Cascade region, I send you a few notes of a
trip into the Siskiyous.Our party was made up of ladies and gentlemen of Williams Creek, Josephine County; but it would take up too much space, and might trench upon their modesty just a little, to describe each member personally. I cannot dispose thus summarily of the young ladies, however, without quoting a line or two from Tommy Moore, as applicable in an eminent degree to their cases. "Oh! he who knows
His heart is weak, from Heaven should prayTo guard him 'gainst such girls as those." The course of our journey was up the right-hand fork of Williams Creek past the newly built saw mill of Messrs. Akers & Co., past several good-looking homesteads of ye hardy settler, then up the gradual and easy grade of the low mountain that divides the waters of Williams and Sucker creeks, across some of the branches of Sucker Creek, then up the long and steep ascent of a spur of old Grayback, on the summit of which we made our first camp. For fear of encroaching too much on your space, I leave out many of the incidents of our journey; but for the information of young lady tourists hereafter, I have some sage advice to offer, to wit: If when riding in a mountainous region, your animal is taken with a sudden disposition to kick with all four of its feet at once, in a spasmodic effort to repel too warm a greeting from a kind of insect noted for the wearing of a yellow jacket, (here's the advice) don't jump off your horse and run back and stand right over the nest as a place of safety. One of the young ladies of our party tried it, and she reports it not a gratifying success. I give this caution no less out of sympathy for the supposed cavalier who may be in attendance upon the young lady, than for the young lady. There are many trying circumstances to be met with in the lives of most ''men on the border," but to have to stand by and realize--not see--that the prettiest girl ''these eyes have seen" is dexterously vibrating her drapery in a frantic effort to resist the spirited attack of exasperated yellowjackets, and not be permitted to render needed assistance in the unequal contest, for fear of adding to her embarrassments a mortification more stinging than the stings of the yellowjackets is to encounter an emergency that puts one's intellect to its most trying tension, and calls for the exercise of a sagacity and nice sense of the proprieties not often ''dreamed of in your philosophy." In such an extremity, to borrow from Joaquin Miller: It seems to me there is more that sees
From the summit of old Grayback may be had a view of mountain scenery
not often beheld. In ordinary seasons it has snow on some of its slopes
the year round, proving that it rears its ''bold and blackened cliffs"
almost as high as Mt. Pitt. Many snow-white spires, in addition to Mts.
Pitt and Shasta, are discernible from its lofty eminence. As far as
human vision can pierce the "ambient air," an unbroken panorama of
diversified mountains, peaks, valleys, hills and dales is spread before
us like planetary spoils before some mighty conqueror. From its western
slopes flow the tributaries of Althouse and Sucker creeks--streams well
known for their mineral wealth, [omission?]
From its eastern edge Applegate begins its graceful horseshoe curve to
reach the ocean. On the south is the rushing, foaming Klamath, and on
the north, nestling in lovely, golden grandeur, is the modest valley of
Williams Creek. "The elements of empire" here are something more than
chimerical; they are visible to the naked eye. Than the eyes in man. You may close your eyes You may turn your back and may still be wise In the sacred and marvelous mysteries. Our second day of adventure took us to the newly found cave on the west slope of old Grayback, and here we might have wandered "All day as day is reckoned on the earth
had
we only taken the precaution to get there with the day's commencement.
As it was, we had to content ourselves with four or five hours of most
delightful work at exploration. I presume the cave resembles in many
respects most all other caves in a limestone region. We traversed many
different apartments, got lost repeatedly, but do not pretend to have
given it anything like a thorough examination. A stream of excellent
water flows out of the cave, up which we first commenced our
explorations, but finding the upper chambers more comfortable, we
confined most of our time to an investigation of them. Formations of a
stalactite and stalagmite character are numerous and of almost infinite
variety. Notwithstanding Byron's "Curse of Minerva" our party could not
resist despoiling this Josephine County wonder of many of its most
beautiful curiosities. We named the cave Elijah's Cave, in honor of its
discoverer, Elijah Davidson. It was first discovered one year ago last
fall, but never explored until July 1877. To those who have never been
in a cave it is a curiosity well worth beholding. It is well ventilated
in the upper chambers; the atmosphere is cool and pleasant, making the
cave a pleasant resort during warm weather. We did most of our
exploring by pitch light, but candles are preferable on account of not
making so much smoke.Within those dim and awful states" Leaving the cave we had numerous and some almost serious adventures on our return, which I had best not take up space relating. The ruggedness of our route was such as is not often traversed by members of the gentler sex, yet their courage rose gradually with the occasion, and although the laws of gravity and the perversity of some of the riding animals, to say nothing of the perversity of some of the riders, had the effect of precipitating one or two very unceremoniously over backwards, and down the mountain, no accidents of a fatal character chanced to attend us. We all got back safely with our spoils from the underworld, and are now engaged wondering that we left as soon as we did, and wishing we were once more back to the scene of our subterranean adventures. F.
Ashland Tidings, August 10, 1877, page 2 The writer, "F," is almost certainly W. W. Fidler.The return of another party from the cave is announced. They confirm without adding to former discoveries. It was found impossible to ascend the bed of the stream much farther, without crawling in the water; none of them being of an amphibian nature, the feat was not attempted. A thorough exploration of the cavern will require time, perseverance and labor, neither of which has been brought to bear upon the task as yet. "Letter from Josephine," Ashland Tidings, October 19, 1877, page 2 The mammoth cave recently discovered in Josephine County will be thoroughly explored this season. "Pacific Coast: Oregon," Corvallis Gazette, July 26, 1878, page 2 SUMMER SAUNTERINGS.
To those who have neither leisure nor inclination to follow these
sketches throughout, I will state that their design is to give a
description of a pleasure-seeking expedition, gotten up by the young
people of Williams Creek, and having for its objective point of
research the cave discovered last summer by Elijah Davidson, and
situated on or near the southern boundary of the state, in Josephine
County, Oregon. And, furthermore, I will add, in advance, that one of
the important results of the expedition was the discovery of many
additional aisles and chambers of beauty in those previously visited.
Such is as brief an outline of the whole as could reasonably be given;
but for those who have time, patience and inclination to follow
details, I have a lengthy, if not an "unvarnishable" tale to unfold.Or, Annals of the Cave Hunters. LETTER NO. I. BY F. Our expedition was composed of the following ladies and gentlemen: Miss Mattie Nail, Miss Emma Nail, Miss Hannah McGee, Miss Anabel Jordan, Miss Lola Layton and Miss Mary E. Layton, Messrs. Andy, Charley, Oliver McGee, Prof. Hathaway, Fritz Mace, Rev. M. C. Miller, D. Vineyard, Carter Davidson, W. Beardsley, Wm. Jordan and this reporter. A combination happily organized for the pursuit and realization of pleasure and recreation. A full sketch of the prominent peculiarities of many of our members, as they were drawn out by the incidents of the journey, would swell these articles to a good-sized volume, and would furnish material for a Dickens to write upon. Foremost in point of wit and hilarity, and most inexhaustible in resources to amuse, was young Oliver McGee, alias "Prof. Tommy," a lad of perhaps sixteen brief summers, and an equal number of equally brief winters. If he isn't the budding "Mark Twain" of the future, it is needless for your humble servant to set himself up for oracle or prophet in such matters. The very antithesis of Prof. Tommy in human nature was Prof. H., silent, seemingly sullen and out of humor, he still had an internal relish of jocundity not exceeded by any member of our party, and his grotesque way of manifesting appreciation, coupled with his sour looks and subsequently approved good nature, added no little zest to the general good humor of the cave hunters. As an evidence of his strong predilection to please, it may be cited that he carried his avoidance of contradiction so far, that if appealed to as to the correctness of a particular statement, in the form of "that's so, isn't it, Mr. H.?" his good nature would lead him to respond in the affirmative, with a promptness most gratifying to the interlocutor, and that, too, independent of such immaterial considerations as truth and veracity. He would not aim purposely to bear false witness, but was simply a victim to an uncontrollable disposition to be agreeable--and he succeeded. But the key to his better nature, once discovered, left him exposed to many annoyances and impositions. For instance: One member of our party would get from him an unequivocal affirmative response to a certain proposition, then one of the distant relatives of Mother Eve would contrive to get as positive response in the negative. Should a young lady, weary of single wretchedness, take advantage of this weakness, and remark: "You will marry me, won't you, Mr. H.?" I am confident she would get an answer sufficient to hang her future hopes or a suit for breach of promise upon. What a source of "joy unspeakable" to the masculine portion of humanity it would be if the young ladies themselves had a little of Prof. H.'s peculiar talent in the use of that monosyllable "Yes." But this is slow progress towards the cave. We left the residence of Mr. McGee on the 8th inst.--the ladies on horseback, while most of the young gentlemen used their pedal extremities. Up the right-hand fork of Williams Creek, across the divide to the headwaters of Sucker Creek, and then up the mountain to the milk ranch of Elijah Davidson, jr., is a tolerably fair trail--barring its steepness. We made this part of the journey without any event of special moment happening to overtake us. The yellowjackets made a running fusillade at our entire party at one time, and one of the young ladies was temporarily placed hors de combat, but the brunt of the battle was borne, though somewhat impatiently, by the horses. The leader of the party--I'm almost ashamed to own it--was an animal, similar to the one that the Savior rode into Jerusalem, and not a little amusement was occasioned through a penchant he had for joining in the chorus, when the musically inclined portion of the crowd indulged in their favorite pastime. Such animals, however, are the appropriate ones for such mountains; the climbing is too severe on horseflesh. From the milk ranch to the cave is a distance variously estimated at from a mile and a half to two and three miles. The first trip, it seems as much as five, but shortens rapidly as you get used to the country. Most of the distance is through heavy timber and burnt openings, with logs and brush to encounter in disagreeable profusion; and if it is a rule without exception that, as the poet says: "There is a pleasure in the pathless wounds,"
it
certainly ought to be come-at-able in this latitude and longitude.
After over two hours' struggling with that kind of pleasure, we reached
the cave in safety, on the evening of our first day's travel. Impatient
for a peep at the wonder we had labored so hard to reach, and in spite
of the fatigue of the journey, some of the youngsters took an
after-night ramble in the cave. It was a little too gloomy a prospect,
however, for one lad, who soon returned to camp and, after lying down
before the fire a short time, meditating what he had seen, halfway
raised up and slowly perpetrated the following ejaculation:"Well, if that ain't the doggonedest place I ever seed!"
To be continued.
Ashland Tidings, July 26, 1878, page 1 The writer, "F," is likely W. W. Fidler.SUMMER SAUNTERINGS.
To most people on this coast, there is little that is new to be said in
favor of camp life in the open air. Many yet survive, who, perhaps, had
a surfeit of its realities while traveling the plains across; others
have tried its invigorating effects on a small scale, while following a
nomadic or Nimrodic life, and in all instances, such an existence has
about it much of the spirit of romance; but for a realization of that
spirit in its twofold sense, and greatest fullness, a mixed company of
romantically inclined young people is necessary. And such were, with
few exceptions, the cave hunters.Or, Annals of the Cave Hunters. LETTER NO. II. BY F. There was no hurry to seek the arms of Morpheus on the night of our arrival. The excitement of the day and expectations of the morrow were slow to be lulled to sleep; then there were other sensations and anticipations, that, the more they are mutually lulled, the livelier they become. Cupid, though blind, is not a friend to drowsiness. And if there had been no other antidote to "Pleasant dreams and slumbers light," the antics of Tommy, the general good cheer and the good music (instrumental and vocal) to which many of the party abandoned themselves, would have been sufficient to reconcile us to a protracted deprivation of "Nature's sweet restorer, balmy sleep." The morning of the 11th was met by our party with an early greeting; some had visions of venison before them, others found wholesome exercise looking after the riding animals, while those remaining in camp attended to culinary preparations. Breakfast once over, preparations were immediately begun for the work of exploration. The most suitable toilet for this business would probably comprise a suit of stout ducking, something not cumbersome nor easily torn; and a bandage over the head instead of fashionable hats or bonnets is recommended on the score of convenience; as well as economy. At the mouth of the cave are two openings, both of which have been choked up with large rocks fallen from above and by sediment, washed in by the stream of water that issues from the cave, and all who penetrate the lower cave must "stoop to conquer." A stiff breeze is to be contended with at the start, to the detriment of lighted candles, but once inside the cave a few rods, the atmosphere is quiet, wholesome and of an equal temperature--such as would certainly be advantageous to persons affected with weak lungs. Three or four rods from the entrance, we come to a rugged chamber that is partly filled with huge stones, from ten to thirty feet in width, and has a fissure extending fifty or more feet overhead. Here are also side tunnels, of little interest, however, in point of ornamental embellishments. There are several small passageways leading to the other apartments. You can either crawl on all fours, or squeeze through a narrow fissure through which runs the stream of water. It was observed that most of the younger ladies had--if anything--a partiality for those places where there was the most squeezing. Girls who inherit a constitutional aversion to all such experiences should shun the lower cave. Along the watercourse is an irregular tunnel, up which a person can ascend about two hundred yards to where the stream is too much choked up for further ingress. It is then to the side and upper chambers that you must turn for the more curious and beautiful specimens of nature's skill in the art of decoration--such fantastic cornice was never dreamed of by the most skillful of human architects. Overhead are to be seen numerous pendant stalactites, resembling icicles. There is seemingly no limit or regularity to the excavations. Wherever the water chanced to run, there the work of excavation and embellishment went on. No inconvenience on account of dampness is experienced in the upper chambers. Numerous drops or beads of water glisten overhead, waiting to be crystallized into shining stalactites. There are many cavities into which the tourist can only peep without penetrating, and this circumstance will fortunately secure much of this underground splendor from spoliation. In trying to find one of the upper chambers previously visited by the writer, we wandered off in a new set of rugged apartments with numerous side openings we did not try to investigate. Finally one or two of us entered a big recess, that, on account of its size and ugly appearance, wight be mistaken for "Symmes' hole" prophesied to exist near the North Pole. Over the pile of immense rock that, from time to time, has fallen into this chasm the writer trailed a line as a guide to return by, and when near what was supposed to be the surface of the mountain, where a strong draft was noticeable, and in plain sight of "other worlds to conquer," the string was fastened and the work of exploration suspended, only temporarily, however. When our party retired from the cave most of our number were too much fatigued to think of resuming operations, and it looked as though further research would be abandoned. The discovery of what were supposed to be other openings to a cave higher up the mountain, however, induced Mr. H. and myself to try the experiment of an entirely new discovery. Our labors were most happily rewarded in the sudden discovery of more natural magnificence and splendor than is usually seen by ordinary mortals in a lifetime. Down every narrow opening, hardly large enough for a full-sized man to squeeze through, we descended to a passageway that led us to a string of apartments, it is perfectly useless to attempt to describe. Only by seeing them as we saw them, fresh from the hand of Him who created all things and as the result of many centuries of growth and construction, can anyone fully realize how truly transporting the sensations born of such a discovery. Is it any wonder that we proclaimed from the mouth of the entrance, to those who were in camp below, that we had discovered the Celestial City? or, that we returned to camp that evening with the proud consciousness of having seen "glory enough for one day"? A number of the young men, on hearing our report, rushed up the mountain and into the newly found entrance to verify our statements. It was not a great while, however, ere they came belting forth from the scene of hidden splendors, with an enthusiasm apparently more irrepressible than our own. These events determined our stay at the cave another day, that all the party might enjoy a sight so rare and yet so glorious. An accident, however, happened to one of the young ladies during the afternoon that deprived her of this satisfaction. One of the young men had accidentally started a rock on the side of the mountain that rolled against her, bruising her ankle so seriously as to temporarily put a stop to active pedestrian exercise. This circumstance gave the author of the accident, who had subsequently killed a large venison, to perpetrate the cruel joke that he had killed one deer and crippled another during the trip. Literally true,with necessary changes in orthography. July the 12th was a busy day with the cave hunters. Such adjectives as "beautiful," "nice," "splendid" etc. had to do service so frequently that they became tiresome, if not odious, expressions. The number of times that "the prettiest room yet" was found is not definitely remembered; nor was there sufficient unanimity of opinion to confine that distinction to well-defined limitations--they were all the prettiest. After passing through a long aisle profusely resplendent in calcareous crystallizations, we come to what resembles a furnished apartment or sitting room. This we named Martha's drawing room, in honor of Miss Martha Nail; farther on we descended into what, in many respects, resembles a cellar filled with boxes, barrels and bottles of diversified shape and sizes. This place was christened Mary's cellar, in honor of Miss Mary Layton. Still farther on is Emma's closet; back a short distance, and to one side, is Anabel's pantry; while to the right of Martha's drawing room is one of the most unique apartments of all--called Tommy's candy shop. This is an almost exact likeness of a well-arranged toy shop, with numerous fancy fixtures hung out as a sign to entrap the runaway urchin. An adjoining room contains a miniature lake or fountain of water. Several places were examined by members of our party that were not visited by the writer, but he has their testimony to the fact that such places were "the prettiest yet." One place was described by Rev. M. C. Miller as resembling an ancient sarcophagus, stored with old mummies. But I dare say it never entered into the mind of man, much as has been expended by mighty rulers for costly sepulture, to devise a mausoleum equal to this. Here are solemn shapes and fairy frost-work artistically blended; beautiful cascades and waterfalls congealed in solid marble; ghost-like images, too substantial to be called an apparition; limestone stairways, with marble steps and balustrade, with ceiling, sides and floor of each room radiant with the profuse magnificence and gorgeous splendor of generous, modest, unassuming nature. To be continued.
Ashland Tidings, August 2, 1878, page 1SUMMER SAUNTERINGS.
"There is an end to everything," it is said, and I suppose the remark
applies to the cave I have so frequently referred to, without
describing, as to other things of a mundane character, but the
discovery of such a termination is indefinitely delegated to the
future. There came an end, however, to our investigation, and ought, in
the nature of things, to be an end to these sketches. From present
appearances without the expenditure of considerable work in the way of
removing obstructions, and perhaps 20 or 50 years from now, it may be
the province of sightseers and wonder admirers to behold new chambers
in all the beauty of their virgin splendor. Otherwise, I am afraid the
glory of Elijah's cave would be short-lived and almost ephemeral
because visitors cannot resist the temptation to strike for specimens,
and the fairest specimens are always the ones that appeal most strongly
to the feeling of covetousness. Many of the specimens get spoiled in
the act of breaking them off, and are thus shorn of their attraction,
while the damage of the cave is irreparable.Or, Annals of the Cave Hunters. LETTER NO. III. BY F. After the enthusiasm of the new discovery had somewhat subsided, we started to examine into its connection with the lower cave. We had hardly started, however, ere we came to the string I had fastened to the rocks the day before, at the upper edge of the big opening called Symmes' hole. Had I not been fatigued and surfeited with explorations on that day--besides a little "skeery" at the prospect of several tons of loosened limestone descending upon a poorly protected head--I might have reaped the honor of the new discovery single handed. I was up in the passageway leading to the beautiful subterranean city, and encountered the current of air coming in at the entrance; but there were other side openings, seemingly just as favorable to important developments, which I failed to enter. The mind gets wearied with grandeur after beholding a score or two of these enchanting chambers, and asks for rest even on the threshold of probable new discoveries. After a short respite, the feeling of curiosity is as keen-edged as ever. This is the reason why those who have once visited this scene of underground magnificence are so soon anxious to return again, after reproaching themselves with the folly of leaving without making more thorough researches. Our party left the cave on the afternoon of the third day after our arrival--most of the members, however, promising themselves a speedy return to the works of delightsome recreation--for we had other scenes of natural splendor to visit, and vividly those scenes brought to mind some of George D. Prentice concluding observations in his immortal poem to Mammoth Cave: "How oft we gaze
With awe or admiration on the new
And unfamiliar, but pass coldly by The lovelier and the mightier! Wonderful Is this lone world of darkness and of gloom, But far more wonderful yon outer world, Lit by the glorious sun. These arches swell, Sublime in lone and dim magnificence. But how sublimer God's blue canopy, Beleaguered with his burning cherubim, Keeping their watch eternal! Are all the snow-white gems that lie beautiful In these mysterious chambers, gleaming out Amid the melancholy gloom, and wild These rocky hills and cliffs and gulfs, but far More beautiful and wild the things that greet The wanderer in our world of light--" &c., &c. We had for our destination what are called "the lakes," near the summit of old Grayback. Up and over the steep ridge east of the cave, over logs, through thickets, and through "the continuous woods where rolls the Oregon" for about two miles--nearly all the way on an up grade--and we reach a camping place on the glade near the lakes, in a few rods of immense banks of snow. Notwithstanding the high altitude of our situation, the place was not wanting in evidences of a nearness to civilization. Sandwiched between patches of snow were seen herds of sheep and cattle, feeding upon the tender green grass that crowns this magnificent and useful old mountain with midsummer verdure at a time when the valleys and their surrounding hills are scorched and brown. This splendid provision in the arrangements of nature is being taken advantage of extensively by the cattle and sheep owners of Illinois [River], Williams Creek and Applegate valleys, who find here a land that "flows with milk and honey," that greets them with all the freshness and joyousness of spring at a time when the unfortunate human bipeds of the valleys are sweltering with summer heat. Poor bipeds! how I pity them! "Ours the wild life in tumult still to range
Such,
I think, was the general feeling of the cave hunters the night we lit
our camp fire so near the stars and heavens. Speaking of the camp fire
reminds me that there was yet a practical, or earthly, side to our
existence. Despite a sense of our lofty eminence, we were hungry, and
supper seemed a factor in the general makeup of human happiness not to
be treated with absolute indifference. The splendid exercise,
necessarily coupled with the life we were leading, vastly increased our
capacity for epicurean enjoyment. We were so infected with a desire for
luxuries that we tried to steal some milk from the cows that were
feeding on the luxuriant garlic, or wild onions, near camp. The calves
up here, however, as we soon learned, are very punctual in the
performance of duties of a lacteal nature, and it was only by tying up
one of these self-acting--if not patented--milkers, that we could hope
for success. This operation was gone through with--we waited patiently
till morning for the lacteal fluid to accumulate, and had our labor for
our pains. The mother bovine kicked the bucket, nearly full of milk,
ruthlessly to the ground, as if to emphasize the commandment, "thou
shalt not steal!" Anyhow, we had garlic for supper, and venison--oh
what venison--besides the edibles brought with us. Everything, or
nearly everything, tastes good when you are hungry, and we were hungry
so often that our supplies threatened to fail us long before we were
satisfied with sauntering. Our appetite for food being both gratified
and satisfied for the evening, left us free to feed other kinds of
appetites that are apt to evince an existence when the demon of hunger
is not too predominant. Some of our members were fond of singing; some,
or perhaps all, had a keen relish for jokes, while a few--not so very
few either--had an appetite for--for--well, after all, I guess it's
best not to be too specific. But, anyhow, and notwithstanding:From toil to rest, and joy in every change." "He who hath loved not, here would learn that love."
And if one or two, or perhaps a still greater proportion of our number, were ready to say:For, to borrow from the same great bard: "It is the hour when from the boughs The nightingale's high note is heard; It is the hour when lovers' vows Seem sweet in every whispered word." "Yes, love indeed is light from Heaven;
I
don't see how anyone who hasn't "been there" can successfully
contradict the proposition: those who've been there, won't try it.A spark of that immortal fire With angels shared, by Allah given, To lift from earth our low desire." Amusements around the camp fire were kept up until late in the night. Tommy excited himself to his fullest capacity; Prof. H., though footsore and disabled for walking by the unusual exercise he was indulging in, was the same unruffled embodiment of good nature--the same imperturbable monument of patience and acquiescence--he had been from the start. "Pap" did some things that caused all to "laugh consumedly." His main effort, however, was a melancholy and signal failure. Mounting a log for the sake of being conspicuous, he essayed the rendering of a very plaintive ditty that had reference to the cold and cruel-heartedness of a young damsel whose name was Polly. He was evidently so absorbed in the sentiment that he lost run of the words, and broke down on the chorus. After frequent repetitions of the word Polly, Polly at last got stuck in the mournful singer's throat, and he then seemed more anxious to get under than he had previously been eager to get on top, the log. "Oh the performance on the whole it may be said
After a brief sojourn in the land of Nod, we commenced early
preparations for the succeeding day's adventures--the hunters to hunt,
and the sightseers to see a section of mountain scenery perhaps
unexcelled anywhere else on the globe. On our way up to the summit of
the mountain we pass by the lakes; but they are too small to claim much
attention. They help out the general appearance of the landscapes;
otherwise they are a useless appendage. Once on the summit we have a
view of a considerable portion of two states--our point of observation
being nearly or quite on the state line. Mt. Shasta seems like a
near-door neighbor. The peaks of the Cascade Range are many of them in
sight. A splendid bird's-eye view of the intervening mountains and
valleys is also had. We can almost see the ocean. Mr. Briggs, who is
herding sheep almost on the summit, says that he can see the ocean on a
fine day. But the finest sight of all is a view of the congregation of
peaks seen in a southwesterly direction. They are very numerous, and
nearly of the same height, being partly covered with snow. The
intermediate places must be filled in by the imagination of the reader.
The only further assistance I feel able to render is this: after having
seen much of the grand and rugged mountain scenery of the state, I
think the view had from here eclipses any similar sight I ever had, not
even excepting a view from the summit of Mt. Pitt.'Twas musical, but sadly sweet." But it is fit that these idle jottings should find a terminal point somewhere, even right here, without tiring anyone with further details; only adding we returned in safety. Ashland Tidings, August 9, 1878, page 1 PICTURESQUE CAVES.
The new discovery is a multiplicity of grotesque and fantastic-looking
objects of nature's fashioning. Persons of lively imagination can, out
of the scenery, make perfect in their minds almost any archetype, and
many different parts of many different animals. The numerous chambers
and many narrow passages with different shaped, fashioned and molded
scenery are surprising and astonishing. A man can go through what is
discovered, and does go through it; the writer has gone through part of
the discovery, but he believes that no one person who does go through
it has a mind large enough to take in and hold all that is to be seen
in that arcadian formation. If lamps with large, brilliant burning
flames to emanate streams of light on the surroundings were placed
there, the sight would be dazzling. The snowy white and wax-colored
stalactite and incrustations that cover the sides cannot be reproduced
in pictures. The wax-colored and vitreous stalactite pendants hanging
from the lower extremity reflect flashes of the light, and when the
burning candles are held still the visitors behold the appearance of
innumerable splendors.One of the Wonders of Nature Found in Southern Oregon. (Grants Pass Circular.) The incrustations on the bottom of some of the chambers include patches of imitation hoarfrost, which is so hard and sharp that it makes prints in the boot-soles; but its glistening in the candle-light is like a body of newly fallen snow when the early sunbeams strike it in the morning air. There are imitation sponges that look soft and velvety, but are hard and sharp to the touch of the hand; imitation coral and coral fringes of very beautiful shapes and colors; a body of stalagmite resembling the snow-clad Mount Hood and the ghost chamber that came near scaring the life out of the cave man when he discovered it. Before entering into the big chamber there is overhead a vertical aperture that seems to run up the distance of thirty feet, and all the way it seems to have the same diameter. A strong current of air spins through, and visitors have to take extra care of their light or they may lose them. The big chamber is well named. It is a spacious underground room, being three hundred and sixty-four feet long, fifty feet wide, its vaulted roof rising to a height of from fifty to seventy-five feet, and its size imposing to the beholder. Its sides and roof consist of rock differing from any other cave chamber that the writer has seen; enormous boulders cover the bottom, and on the shelly sides bunches of gravel are sticking that contain variously colored pebble stones. Wellington Enterprise, Wellington, Ohio, April 14, 1886, page 7 TO EXPLORE JOSEPHINE COUNTY CAVES.--Mr. W. G. Steel, who has imbibed a love for exploration, and whetted his zeal by a journey to Crater Lake last summer, proposes to explore the caves of Josephine County as soon as the weather will permit. He will go with a party of four or five, and will do his best to reach the "headwaters." These caves are situate about thirty-two or thirty-three miles southwest of Grants Pass, and thus far have been ineffectively explored. Prof. Thomas Condon, of the University of Oregon, visited them, but for lack of time penetrated only about 600 feet. He states that so far as he went there were very few points where a man could stand upright. A Southern Oregon man, who did some exploring last summer, said he found a room fully sixty feet high. When Mr. Steel goes, it will be with the intention of staying long enough to find the innermost recesses of the cavern.--Oregonian. Roseburg Review, May 13, 1887, page 4 An Exploring Party.
Morning Daily Herald, Albany, Oregon, August 26, 1888, page 3
Friday's overland California express carried a party of three young men
from Portland bend upon an interesting mission. W. G. Steel, S. S.
Nicholine and E. D. Dewert left for Josephine County, where they will
explore the famous Josephine County caves and afterwards Crater Lake.
These caves are labyrinthine in their internal structure and have never
been fully explored. It is thought that investigators have penetrated
to the distance of some three miles, though no accurate or actual
measurements have been taken. Mr. Dewert carries with him a complete
photographic outfit, and in addition to exterior views will endeavor to
reproduce scenes in the caves by the aid of a flash light. He will also
take views while the party are at Crater Lake. Should the flash light
prove successful, many interesting pictures may be looked for, as Mr.
Dewert supplied himself with a large number of plates. The trip is
expected to extend over some ten days.
THE PARTY HEARD FROM.
W. G. Steel and Others Explore the Josephine County Caves. Under date of Grants Pass, August 28, Mr. W. G. Steel writes as follows:
Our party consisting of H. D. Harkness, M. M. Harkness and Marion Harkness of Grants Pass, S. S. Nicolini of Portland, E. Dewert and your humble servant also of Portland, returned from the Josephine County caves late this evening. We were in the caves twelve hours wandering through the numerous passageways and chambers. We feel that our visit was a genuine success throughout. Early tomorrow morning we leave for Crater Lake. We have been on the go from 4 a.m. to midnight for four days, and it is now nearly midnight again, so you can understand why we are "all broke up." While in the caves we secured some fine specimens of stalactites. Morning Daily Herald, Albany, Oregon, September 1, 1888, page 3 IN THE JOSEPHINE CAVES.
A Party of Portlanders Explore These Famous Underground Palaces. Marvels of Nature Hidden from the Eyes of Man-- Photographs Taken by Means of a Flash Light. CRATER LAKE, Sept. 7.
On Friday evening, August 24, S. S. Nicolini of Ragusa, Austria, E. D.
Dewert of Portland and myself boarded the southbound train for Grants
Pass, intent on a few days' outing. This town of Grants Pass was so
named for a pass in the mountains several miles south, where, in early
days, the silent hero camped for the night. [The pass was named in honor of U. S. Grant, but he never set foot in Southern Oregon.]Early Saturday morning my head was banged up against one end of our sleeping car, an instant after hearing the shrill whistle sounding "down brakes." As soon as possible I got on the outside and found the engines standing within a few feet of a yawning chasm, where a bridge had been. Now, however, several bents had been burned away and a terrible railroad accident was averted by the quick eye of engineer Elliott, who saw the fire as we turned the curve and stopped the train almost instantly. At Grants Pass, H. D., M. M. and F. M. Harkness joined us, and we started for the Josephine County caves, about thirty miles due south in the Siskiyou Mountains. For twenty miles the trip was made over a very good road by wagon. At that point it became necessary to pack our things on two horses and walk over a trail into the mountains. On a hot day this portion of the trip is very laborious, owing to the fact that it is up the steep mountainside about two-thirds of the way, and down an equally steep incline the remainder. We arrived at our destination a little before noon the 27th, and found two openings, one above the other, and about one hundred yards apart on the south side of a deep canyon. When out hunting a few years since, Elijah Davidson found a bear and chased it into the lower entrance, thus discovering the caves. Each entrance is high enough to admit a person without stooping, and is probably eight feet wide. At noon we entered the upper cave. For a few feet the floor inclined inward; we then descended a ladder for about six feet, and found ourselves in a passageway eight feet wide by an equal height, which changed, however, at every step. Now it would be wider, and now narrower; now higher, and now lower. Walls, ceiling and floor were composed of solid rock. To describe them appropriately would simply be to use a gift made divine by inspiration. No man can behold them, then impart to others an accurate idea of their appearance. Soon after entering we were compelled to progress on hands and knees, then stood upright in chambers ten feet high, the walls of which were white. Stalactites were first seen here, and and involuntarily we cast shy glances around to discover the bodies of kings preserved beneath such droppings in "King Solomon's Mines." We wandered from place to place, from chamber to chamber, dragging ourselves through passageways briefly large enough to admit a human body, while with toes and fingers we worked along, or stood in the midst of rooms that reached far above us. Now we see a beautiful pool of the clearest water, surrounded by a delicate crystal formation in the shape of a bowl. In color it is as white as the driven snow, while each crystal is oblong, projecting at right angles with the main portion for about an eighth of an inch. One peculiarity of these crystals that disappointed us was the fact that they change from white to a dull, yellowish color immediately after being removed from the caves. We were extremely anxious to try a new process for taking photographs in the dark, do Dewert took his camera and acted as photographer for the party. Owing to the limited space at times and cramped manner of locomotion, it requires the services of four men to carry the camera and accompanying necessities. Having reached a suitable place for a picture, the camera was first put in position, a board was laid on the top of it in which a tin reflector was placed, and a little powder called the lightning flash was then poured on the board in front of the reflector. At this point the order was given, "Douse the glim," and all lights were extinguished. The plate was exposed in perfect darkness, the powder was ignited, and instantly there was a flash of the most intense light. This light was so brilliant that for several minutes afterward it caused in the eyes a lingering sensation of light. Several photographs were taken in this way, which will doubtless prove excellent examples of what ingenuity can do in the dark. It would require days of constant work to explore all the passage we found, whereas our time was limited to that portion of one day after 12 o'clock noon. For this reason we remained in the caves from noon to midnight, first examining the upper, then the lower one. This difference exists between them: The one above is possessed of fine stalactite formations, while below none appear. Instead, however, immense rocks are piled indiscriminately one upon the other, with great cracks between. Long ladders were used to climb to the tops of rocks, over the sides of which yawning pits could be seen that seemed to possess no bottom. Lack of time alone prevented our making a thorough investigation, but I could not resist the temptation to climb over the side of one friendly rock for a few feet to see what it looked like. Down to twenty feet the space remained unchanged so that I could easily reach from rock to rock. It then widened out and I could proceed no further without ropes, so I returned to the party. A fine stream of clear, cold water flows from this cave, and a strong breeze of cool air rushes forth also. At times in both upper and lower cave the wind blew toward the entrance so strong it was impossible to keep the lights burning. No traces of foul air have been found in either cave. Before our visit visions of square chambers filled my mind only to be dusted aside when real ones presented themselves, the irregular shape of which could not well be surpassed. There are no parallel walls, few straight ones, but corners everywhere. The floor will pitch in all directions, likewise ceiling and walls. Beautiful views of stalactites and stalagmites stand out in bold relief against snow-white walls. At the farthest extremity of the upper cave in one direction an immense chamber presents itself, and should be known as the devil's banquet hall. It is probably 75x150 feet and sixty feet in height. Great blocks of rock hang as by a thread from the ceiling, while on every side rocks of equal size lie in all conceivable shapes except in order. Standing at the point of entry one looks at the opposite side and sees great cracks; yawning cavities with open mouths of blackness, dismal shadows to flickering lights give a ghoulish, dance-like appearance. Yes, the devil seems to be holding high carnival, while his imps would dance the night away. They bob up and down and swing their arms in fiendish glee, while the dance goes on forever. None can look therein without seeing these imps and their antics. The floor recedes rapidly from the entrance, and is composed of great rocks scattered in confusion. We placed a number of lighted candles in different places, then climbed to the opposite side to view them. The shadows had partially disappeared; crevices and holes in the walls not before seen became suddenly black and excited our curiosity, so we climbed over high rocks into unknown passages. In a small chamber on one side we found a beautiful stream of water, falling several feet into a crystal basin. The walls of the chamber are white, and the effect by candlelight is very fine indeed. Midnight found us still employed, but we reluctantly ceased our labors and withdrew. Without unnecessary ceremony we wrapped our blankets about us, laid down beneath the stars, and slept the sleep of the just until 3 o'clock, when the dulcet notes of a coyote called us to the business of the day. Preparations were quickly made for the journey, and at daylight we were on our way to Grants Pass, where we arrived at 9 o'clock p.m. W. G. STEEL.
Morning Oregonian, Portland, September 10, 1888, page 8Grants Pass Courier: Cap. Henderson is about to erect a hotel at the mouth of the famous Josephine County caves, and those romantic fastnesses will soon become a famous summer resort. They are distant twenty miles southeast of Kerby, within three miles of the California line. The subterranean passages have been explored for about ten miles, and they seem to run away into California. The captain says there is tolerable good footing most of the way, but the chambers are up and down, necessitating the use of ladders at various points. In one place there is a deep pit into which rocks have been thrown, but have never been heard to strike, so it is considered pretty nearly bottomless. They will be more fully explored in the future. The Dalles Daily Chronicle, April 16, 1892, page 3 Nine men have gone from Grants Pass to make a trail to the Josephine caves and build a cabin. When this is done the hardy "explorers" from San Francisco will come up and discover the caves in regulation style. The Dalles Daily Chronicle, February 13, 1894, page 1 THAT CAVE.--The Josephine County cave promises to be the great attraction of the coast, and hence everybody will wish to be kept posted on the progress being made to open it. The Grants Pass Courier says: "The motor line construction party under Capt. A. B. Smith, the superintendent of the Oregon Cave Improvement Company, have made rapid strides in building a road to reach that wonderful region of grandeur, with a party of 15 men. A supply station has been established at the end of the county road on Williams Creek and another on Henderson Creek at the head of Sucker Creek, where we diverge from the trail over the Meadows mountain, which is so formidable that a trail cut around it cannot be much longer and a wagon road can be made there, as the caves are but a little above the camp on Henderson Creek. A cabin has been built at the caves to accommodate the workmen while building the road and cabins for the accommodation of the 'Examiner party,' who will visit it at its earliest completion. The snow is now so deep that the working crew has been reduced to eight men. When the snow subsides a little, more men will be put on so there will be no delay in its completion." Albany Daily Democrat, February 15, 1894, page 3 That Cave.
Anything about the wonderful cave in Josephine County is of general interest. The following is from the Grants Pass Courier:
George Thornton came in from the Cave Development Co.'s works last
Tuesday after an absence from the city of six weeks. He says a number
of very comfortable cabins have been built along the line of the
proposed stage road, and these will be used as camps and stopping
places for the construction forces and travelers. The mouth of the cave
has been housed in with a neat building, 12 feet high. Capt. Smith, who
is an expert with the artist's brush, was at work on the building
recently, painting the letters, "The Great Oregon Caves," when he saw a
wildcat looking at him through the brush. The captain immediately
dropped from his exalted position and rushed for camp, minus hat and
coat, and declared that a huge panther had been fixing for a murderous
spring upon him. The crew went out "loaded for bear" or panther, but
the tracks plainly showed that only a wildcat had been the cause of the
captain's nervousness.
George has every confidence in the company's ability and determination to develop these magnificent caves, which have already been explored to the depth of 22 miles. When the Examiner party arrives they are going to stay till the ends have been reached or till a decision has been made that there is no end. The Examiner claims that the caves are 70 miles deep; the Kentucky caves end in 7 miles. George, himself, has been in the Josephine caves a distance of three miles with a lantern. When the light goes out the darkness is so intense as to become as painful to the eyes as the most glaring sunlight. The buildings have been mostly constructed of cedar, which splits readily into straight boards, and George has been shoving his jackplane for weeks putting a dressed surface on the split lumber. Eugene City Guard, May 12, 1894, page 6 The Josephine Cave Co., who were going to do so much and did do considerable on jawbone, had their effects sold by the sheriff this week. Their assets don't come near covering what they owe. "Pressed Bricks," Valley Record, Ashland, October 18, 1894, page 1 The Josephine Caves.
The Portland Mazamas,
who have arranged for a climb to Crater Lake in August, have in view a
visit to the wonderful Josephine caves, which are among the unexplored
curiosities of Oregon. Little is known of them. They are high up on old
Greyback, and about 40 miles from Grants Pass, and they are reached
either by way of Kerby or Williams Valley. The executive committee of
the Mazamas has been corresponding with Mr. Silsby, of that city, with
reference to conveying the party of mountain climbers to the Josephine
caves.
The Ashland Crater Club has been completing all the details for the trip up to Crater Lake, and the prospects are that it will be a very delightful trip. The Plaindealer, Roseburg, July 9, 1896, page 2 Emory E. Smith, industrial agent of the Southern Pacific, in company with D. Loring, chief clerk in the land department at Portland, made our office a call on Thursday. These gentlemen are sent out by the railroad company to look over the country as to its possibilities for future development and immigration, and to investigate its natural wonders. They left today (Friday) with their own outfit to explore the Josephine caves, with a view of advertising them as one of the wonders of Oregon and the country in general. It is time the Southern Pacific began to advertise the resources of the state.--Journal. Gold Hill News, October 1, 1898, page 1 A WONDERFUL CAVE.
In Southern Oregon, hugging the California line near the famous old
mining camp of Kerby, is a cave that promises on further exploration to
be the greatest in the world. It is in the Siskiyou reservation [sic], seventy-five miles from Crater Lake and eight miles from mines on Sucker Creek, says the Philadelphia Press.In Southern Oregon, Near the California Line-- Four Stories of Marble Halls. This wonder of marble and crystal beauty has been explored to great depths by a party composed of Joaquin Miller, C. B. Watson and Jefferson Myers. Mr. Myers returned to Portland enthusiastic over what he had seen. "It is truly wonderful, that place is," he said. "We went over all that is now known of it. Joaquin Miller named it 'The Marble Halls of Oregon'." "We went from Kerbyville under the guidance of the two men who have spent twenty years in and around the splendid place--John Kincaid, of Williams, Ore., and Frank M. Nickerson, of Kerby. "From Kerby we went to the mouth of Cave Creek, then up that stream over a good foot trail seven miles to the mouth of the 'Halls.' Here the River Styx comes right out of the mountain and tumbles over a fall of twenty feet. This is the lower entrance. It is about as large as an ordinary door in the face of a marble cliff, three hundred feet high and five hundred feet long, and clear white--a beautiful sight in itself. This entrance was found in 1874 by a hunter named Elijah Davidson, who trailed a white-faced deer into the place. Three years later, in 1877, Davidson, Nickerson, one of our guides, and John M. Chapman made the first exploration. They went over the same route within the cave that we did this trip. "The first owners were Homer and Ernest Harkness, brothers, who squatted there in 1880 and spent over $1,000 trying to open up the place. They made trails and all that, but gave it up, for there were not people enough to come to see it to make it pay. F. M. Nickerson and A. J. Henderson next took up the property in 1887. After them came Captain A. B. Smith, who spent about $2,000. Our party went in August 10 last, and through the efforts of M. J. Anderson, chief of forestry for Southern Oregon, the government withdrew it from private entry and will make it a national monument. "The halls are, so far as we know now, on four levels, or floors. From the lowest to the highest is about 600 feet. These levels, as in a mine, are connected here and there." New York Tribune, December 8, 1907, page 45 History of Discovery and Sketch of the Marble Halls of Oregon.
I had quite an experience that day and well remember something of the
time. As to dates I cannot be quite sure, but I think it was the year
1873, in the month of October. A crowd of six, including myself,
planned for a hunt in the Siskiyou Mountains. We packed several horses
with provisions and our camping outfit, took our way up the middle fork
of Williams Creek along a dim, brushy trail, then took our course
through the open woods, crossing over the divide at the head of the
creek, then down to Sucker Creek, where we halted for a short time and
disposed of a much-needed lunch prepared for the occasion. After lunch
we continued on our way, which was anything but a smooth path. With a
big mountain staring us in the face, and in many places almost
perpendicular and no way around, we trudged on our weary way, trying to
reach the top. Not a word was said, not a breath to spare, but all
moved on in silence. Early in the evening we came to the Mountain
Meadows, directly under the old noted Grayback Mountain. And say, I
want to tell you it was an ideal camping place. Our faces soon lost
their tired, weary expression and lighted up with pleasure at the
thought of tomorrow's hunt. All got busy, and very soon we had a
comfortable camp--everything in readiness for a good night's sleep.By E. J. Davidson, Provolt, Oregon. Armed with our muzzle-loading rifles, we started early the next morning for our hunt. Every fellow was to select his own direction which to follow. Something seemed to tell me to take the course that eventually led to the discovery of the caves. Picking up my rifle and taking my famous bear dog, Bruno, I started down the middle fork of Sucker Creek, and then across to another creek. Knowing my dog so well, he gave me to understand there was something above. I at once, with the eagerness that only an old hunter can feel, slipped through the brush, hoping to catch sight of something, and as I cautiously crept along I spied a large buck with his head well elevated in the air. I quickly leveled my gun, holding high on his shoulder with a full bead, and let drive. At the crack of the gun the deer leaped into the air and was soon out of sight. Feeling sure I had hit him some, I told my dog to give chase. He was off like a flash, and in less than a minute had the deer going down the mountain like double-geared lightning and into the canyon below. Being somewhat swift myself on a downhill push, I was soon at the spot where a desperate struggle was taking place. Knowing the fight could not last long, as Bruno had his favorite hold on the animal's left leg, I waited for the end to come. Soon the buck fell and his heels went into the air. Bruno jumped for his throat quick as a flash; at the same time I seized a foreleg, threw it over his horns and, with my hunting knife, severed the jugular. It was then I discovered the wonderful head of horns. There were two perfect horns on one side and one on the other. The horns are still to be seen at Ad. Helm's place of business in Jacksonville. Everything seemed to be leading me to the cave; for, as I turned from my buck, I again found my dog with uplifted head and staring eyes directed into a clump of trees, waiting for the word "Go.'' I sprang for my gun and gave the word. He was off like lightning, while I followed as quickly as possible, and soon found myself in front of a large hole in the mountain. I could hear sounds of fighting coming from far back in the mountain. Undecided as to what to do, I stood waiting, when my dog gave vent to a weird, agonizing howl, as if he were in great pain. Hesitating no longer, I rushed into the opening and soon found myself coming up against sharp crags on the wall. I soon decided it was a hard chase to pursue without a light, and thinking of a few matches that I had in my old-fashioned shot pouch, very soon had a light and, to my surprise, found I was in some sort of a cave; but losing no time in looking around as the fight was being continued, I struck match after match, thinking I would soon be on the scene of the struggle. But, no; my matches were gone! I turned to go back, but could see no rays of light. With the deafening howls and groans coming to my ears from somewhere near [it] made me think were I only out I would not attempt such a thing again. I finally found my way back to a running stream of water and, following it, came to the mouth of the cave. I waited anxiously for Bruno to come, and very soon he came splashing down the creek, and but for a few scratches was unhurt. Neither I nor my dog were satisfied with the outcome of the fight, so I determined to take another chance; but as it was now well on in the evening, I decided to go back to camp and return on the morrow. Before going I conceived the idea of placing the buck that I had just killed near the entrance of the cave, knowing Bruin would be sure to come out for food and, after eating all he could, would, as is their habit, lie down by the remaining part, which would give me a chance to kill him. The next morning I returned very early to the scene of my encounter of the previous day and, just as I had anticipated, found the monstrous black bear lying near the carcass of the deer. I lost no time in getting my gun to my shoulder and fired. The bear jumped to his feet; I told Bruno to "go,'' and immediately a fierce battle was in progress. The struggle lasted but a few minutes, when the bear, with a groan, rolled over dead. After having captured my prize I again entered the den of the now-dead bear. Not knowing the extent of the place, I did not realize I was in a "real cave,'' but after traveling around for hours, decided I must be several hundred feet underground, and as yet there seemed to be no terminus. The walls and ceiling were covered with the most beautiful stalactites--it seemed more the work of some skilled workman, as everything was so perfectly carved and placed. After wandering around for hours and collecting a number of curios to take out with me, I left the cave fully intending to get the other boys and return, but a storm came up and we had to make for home without having a chance to make another exploration. Later on a crowd, with myself acting as guide, visited the cave and explored it more fully than I had done on my previous trip. And, again, many times in later years I visited the place and secured a number of curios. ----
Others have claimed the honor of the discovery of the Josephine County
Caves, the Oregon Caves, or, as named by Joaquin Miller at the time of
his exploration three years ago of the wonders of this immense cavern,
the Marble Halls of Oregon; but there is the best of proof that to Mr.
Davidson belongs this great honor. Mr. Davidson resides now at Missouri
Flat, the same section of Applegate Valley in which he resided at the
time he discovered the caves thirty-seven years ago, and there are some
of the members of that famous hunting party also residing there. By
these men and by many of the old settlers of the valley the statements
made by Mr. Davidson in his article above given can be verified.These now-famous caves are located in the foothills of the Siskiyou Mountains and are formed in an immense deposit of marble--hence their fitting name of the Marble Halls of Oregon. The entrance to these caves is on a hillside just above the banks of Cave Creek, a small tributary of Sucker Creek, which in turn is a tributary of the Illinois River, and this in turn is a tributary of Rogue River. Medford and Grants Pass are the two points on the Southern Pacific Railroad that have the most direct access to these caves. From Medford there is a good wagon road by way of Jacksonville, Applegate and Williams, a distance of about thirty miles, to the head of Williams Creek Valley. From this point it is nine miles to the caves by a trail. This trail was opened by the pioneer miners and cattlemen more than forty years ago and was improved somewhat about ten years ago by a San Francisco company that attempted to make the caves accessible to tourist travel and to develop them into a great resort. The caves being within the Siskiyou forest reserve, the government has within the past two years done a large amount of work on the trail, and it is now in fine condition. From Grants Pass the caves can be reached by the Williams Creek trail by way of Murphy, and by the Grants Pass and Crescent City stage road, going by the latter to Kerby and thence up Sucker Creek to within three miles of the caves, the remainder of the way being by a good trail. From Grants Pass to the Williams Creek trail is twenty-five miles, and by way of Kerby to the Cave Creek trail about forty miles. Explorations, especially that made by the Joaquin Miller party, which was under the auspices of the Southern Pacific railroad, have proved that the Marble Halls of Oregon extend for an unknown. number of miles under the Siskiyou Mountains. The galleries and passageways already traversed measure over nine miles, and there were openings beyond that the explorers did not venture into. There is evidence that these caves extend through the mountain divide between the Sucker Creek and Applegate valleys, for there is an opening in a marble ledge at the head of Carberry Creek, a tributary of the Applegate River, that is very similar in appearance to the entrance on Cave Creek. This opening was discovered three years ago by Oscar and Bert Bigelow, two stockmen of Williams Valley, while hunting for stock. The opening is so small that it can not be penetrated but a short distance, but that it is the entrance to a big cavern is proven by the fact that there is a strong air current alternately passing in and out, varying with the weather conditions, just as there is at the main entrance to the cave. This opening on the Applegate side of the mountain has about the same altitude as has the main entrance to the cave on the Sucker Creek side, and it is quite possible that there is a continuous passageway under the mountain. These openings are in that section of the mountain divide between Applegate Valley and Sucker Creek Valley that would, current report has it, be crossed by the Pacific & Eastern Railroad, should it be extended from Medford to the coast. To utilize a natural tunnel would be a feat never before known in the history of railroad building. As this cave-tunnel would be some nine miles in length and would pass through a great number of immense vaulted chambers and spacious passageways lined with stalactites and stalagmites, and other formations of beautiful and fantastic shapes all in spotless white, it would make a scenic attraction not equaled by that of any other railroad in the world. In grandeur and size, the Marble Halls of Oregon are without doubt one of the world's greatest caves, and when they are readily accessible by railroad they will become one of the most noted attractions of America and will be visited by thousands of tourists each season. In Crater Lake Southern Oregon has another scenic attraction that far excels any other like natural wonder in the world. With such rare attractions as the Marble Halls of Oregon and Crater Lake, and with the other interesting features of beautiful mountain and valley scenery, the best of fishing and hunting and a salubrious, bracing climate, Rogue River Valley will become the Mecca for lovers of nature, and within the not distant future will each year be visited by thousands of tourists. Rogue River Fruit Grower, Medford, May 1910 Elijah Davidson, the discoverer of the caves, was present on the outing as the special guest of the Mazama organization, and around the camp fires he retold the story of the giving of the curiosity to civilization. In 1875 Davidson tracked a wounded bear along Grayback till it found refuge in the lower cave entrance. He followed it in for a distance, but being without adequate light he waited till the next day when he returned with Ira Sparlin, John Kincaid and David John, all present and guiding for the Mazamas Saturday, and explored the find for some distance, and incidentally found the carcass which he had shot the day before. "Mazamas at the Caves," Rogue River Courier, Grants Pass, June 6, 1913, page 8 Mount Rainier National Park
The tourist who really cares for lagniappe
ought not to overlook an important feature of interest located in the
Siskiyous of Southern Oregon--the caves of Josephine County, sometimes
called the Marble Caves--which six years ago were erected into a
national monument by the United States government. By Emerson Hough There are two approaches to these caverns, which lie at an elevation of forty-three hundred feet. One may go in by way of Grants Pass and Holland, with about forty miles of good auto road and about ten miles that ought to be very much better. This approach will take you up Sucker Creek to the comfortable tent colony established not long ago in charge of Mr. Hillson. This is located on Sucker Creek, twenty-one hundred feet below the cave entrance. A very good trail, about five miles in length, runs from this camp to the mouth of the caves. From Williams Creek, on the other side of Grayback Mountain, the approach is thirty-seven miles, twenty-seven of which is road and ten miles trail. One can go up horseback or on foot from the Sucker Creek Camp, the foot journey requiring between two and three hours The Oregon Caves do not date back very far in history. It was in 1874 that Elijah Davidson, later a prospector, then but a boy, followed a wounded bear into a dark hole which he found in the side of the mountain--a wholly orthodox way of discovering a cavern. He went back for help, and, equipped with ropes and candles, went into the cave, while a more timid youth sat on the outside and wept an hour or so over the unreturning brave. History does not say whether or not Mr. Davidson ever got his bear, but he got his cave; and on Cave Day--June fifteenth, as established by the Chamber of Commerce of Grants Pass--Mr. Davidson is still reverenced as one of the venerable men who have come down to us from the past. In 1898 one Mr. Nickerson conceived the idea of locating these caves as mineral land and charging an admission to see them. He could not, in Western parlance, quite "cut the mustard" for this enterprise; and in 1906 Mr. W. B. Sherman, of Grants Pass, and Mr. M. J. Anderson, forester of Siskiyou Reserve, started the attempt that three years later resulted in the Oregon Caves National Monument. Jolly, Thrilly, Tallowy Exploration
As to the caves themselves, they are not so large as those of Kentucky
and Virginia, but are said--by all geologists who have visited them--to
be very well worth seeing. There are two levels or entrances, but both
portions of the caverns can be covered on one trip if desired. The
explored parts of the caverns cover about three and a half miles and,
as at present visited, require about three and a half hours of rather
steady progress. The only guide is the forest ranger, R. W. Rowley, who
has come to know the caves very thoroughly. These caverns--which follow a general dip toward the mouth, from which emerges a well-developed mountain stream--are, as is usual in extensive caverns, located in limestone formation. There is a draft of air continually passing downward and out toward the mouth, there being an aperture high up on the opposite side of the mountain, from which the air sucks down. For any geologist the most curious thing about the caverns is the heavy deposits of gravel wash that may be seen in distinct strata at half a dozen different places--hundreds of tons of such deposits. Where this gravel came from is something of a question; but it is there and you can see it for yourself. There are abundant thrills and difficulties in these damp subterranean passages. Doing a cave is always a jolly, muddy, tallowy, thrilly sort of thing, you know. Forty ladders have been erected to facilitate travel, and in some cases narrow passages have been cut out in the floor, so that one does not have to crawl quite so flat. Earlier explorers, who used smoky lamps or torches, have somewhat clouded the white of the stalactites and stalagmites of the shallower passages and chambers; but there are lofty rooms and halls where everything is still crystal white. In one place you climb a ladder of one hundred feet, passing from the Ghost Chamber up to Paradise Lost--and you wonder just a bit when Rowley tells you that he dragged in the poles for this ladder all alone, and put it up all alone. Joaquin Miller gave names to many of these features of the caverns. There is a chapel named after him, and you will be shown the Bridal Chapel also; and, of course, the Bottomless Pit--which does seem bottomless--and Dante's Inferno, Adam's Tomb, Judicial Hall, Watson's Grotto and Kincaid's Ballroom, with scores of others, some of them very beautiful. These caves, which have never yet had over a thousand visitors in any one year, have had one or two tragic incidents in their short career. In 1909 a Mr. Ellis and his bride of three weeks, with a friend named Vineyard, undertook to explore the caverns alone. There had been some sort of foolish talk about robbers, and Ellis is thought to have carried his revolver in his hand as he went on ahead. At a short ladder, only a hundred feet or so inside the entrance, his pistol was discharged. Killed almost instantly, he fell back directly against his wife. Terrified at the sound of the shot, the other young man fled and found his way out. Mrs. Ellis sat there for three hours in utter darkness, with her dead husband's head in her lap, the damp chill of the cavern about her--as terrifying an experience as could come to the lot of any woman. At last, after what seemed to her an interminable time--she could not tell how long--it really was three hours--she left him, managed to find the entrance, and ran three miles down the trail for help. They got the coroner sometime that night, but there was no inquest, for the facts were quite apparent. A white cross on the cave wall marks the spot of this tragedy. At another time a young man by the name of Love, from Portland, was lost, as he claimed, for forty-nine hours, and rescued at length by the very useful guide, Rowley. He had fallen off a steep ledge a distance of several feet to the bottom of a chamber, and probably lay for some time unconscious before he began to move round in the darkness, unable to find his candle Four years ago, in a low passageway that runs back from Kincaid's Ballroom, Richard Lane, of Holland, found the skeleton of a man. Was this the original discoverer of these caves? If not, he must have gone in later than 1874, perhaps to do a little exploration of his own. He was a white man--that is sure; for, though no clothing was left and the bones were crumbling, buttons were found and part of a jackknife. Rainier or Tacoma
A trip out to these caves from one of these beautiful little cities of
the Rogue River Valley is very much worthwhile. The night in camp is
pleasant and interesting, as well as comfortable. All about one stretch
a vast forest and a vast mountain country. From the summit above the
caves one can see Mount Shasta, down in California, and a dozen other
lofty peaks here and there.This was all mining country once, and the road into these hills was built forty years ago, in the days of the old California Bar. Hydraulic mining still goes on in one or two places. You can see much pick-and-shovel work. And hard by the tent camp you may discover the handicraft of a solitary miner who has got down to bedrock and let in a stream of water for his long tom. He has been working this little claim for years. When he gets very hungry or very thirsty he goes to work for a day or so and makes a cleanup. He still gets his wages in gold--come peace, come war. Saturday Evening Post, November 6, 1915, page 10 NEW FURNISHINGS FOR CAVE RESORT
George C. Sabin, manager of the Oregon Caves resort, near Grants Pass,
was in Portland last week he said, arranging with Portland business
houses for delivery to the new hotel of $10,000 worth of furniture,
draperies, carpets and kitchen and dining room equipment.
Sabin said the new six-story structure in Cave Creek canyon will be opened in May. He said the resort company, composed largely of Grants Pass business men, has been two years completing the building, the exterior of which is finished in Port Orford cedar bark. An artificial brook runs through the dining room of the hotel. Gold Hill News, February 8, 1934, page 1 Odd Questions Asked at Oregon Caves Resort
Oregon Caves National Monument, Oregon, August 22.--Like other scenic
attractions throughout the country, odd questions are asked at the
Oregon Caves. Although the passageways of the caves are narrow in a
number of places and include ladders and steps, visitors have asked if
burros or horses are available to ride through them.
The trip usually takes two hours on foot, with each party limited to 16 people. The route of exploration covers a distance of two miles. Other visitors are often anxious to locate the monument, not realizing the entire caves area is termed a monument, a term used to signify that an area has been set aside to preserve a certain feature of scenic interest. Gold Hill News, August 23, 1934, page 2 LIGHTING OREGON CAVES UNDER WAY
George F. Whitworth, project superintendent of Camp Oregon Caves, was
in Medford Saturday and announced work has been started on a new
lighting system for the cave passageways.
A crew has been working on trails inside the caves during the past ten days, and will soon be put to work installing lights and wires. Each globe and all wires are to be concealed, and the effect, with colored lights, is to be indirect. Beauty of the caves will be brought out with this system, and the passageways will be made easier to negotiate. Whitworth said the camp has constructed its own snow plow and will hereafter keep the road into the caves open the year 'round. Besides construction of the snow plow the camp has installed their own blueprinting and photographic equipment within the last several days. One hundred men are at work about the caves proper. Medford Mail Tribune, February 3, 1935, page 3 3-C Men Make Many Improvements at Caves
Oregon Caves National Monument, Oregon, December 18.--Civilian
Conservation Corps activities in the Oregon Caves during the past year
covered numerous projects, a narrative report of work accomplished
reveals. This camp, which spends a summer months at Annie Spring in
Crater Lake National Park, was established at Oregon Caves last year
and has done much to beautify and improve the monument areas, under the
jurisdiction of the National Park Service.
In addition to working on monument projects, considerable attention was devoted to projects for the Siskiyou National Forest, the report reveals. The Oregon Caves camp is credited with 6,905 man-days of labor. Among the important work projects completed is a new water system, including the installation of 8000 feet of pipe and the construction of a 38,000-gallon water reservoir, assuring the caves area an ample water supply during all times of the year. CCC enrollees were active in the improvement of the trail system within the caves, making the caves more accessible for visitors. Other projects include two miles of horse trail, five acres fire hazard reduction near the cave entrance, 10 acres topographic survey, one acre landscaping, one mile cave trail improvements, 75-foot bridge over Sucker Creek in Siskiyou National Forest, 2.5 acres forest improvement, 10 camp fire places, 700 feet pipe line in campground, construction of community house in forest campground, insect pest control and transplanting 250 trees and shrubs for beautification purposes. The camp is now engaged in the continuance of additional improvement work in and near the monument and will be so engaged for the length of the winter season. Gold Hill News, December 19, 1935, page 2
VISITOR RECALLS TRIALS OF PARTY LOST IN CAVERNS
OREGON CAVES.--(Spl.)--An experience of being lost in the Oregon Caves
56 years ago was recalled here this week by O. L. McPherson of
Portland. His experiences occurred long before lights were installed or
guided trips were provided through the caverns.When 11 years old and living in Kerbyville, now known as Kerby, McPherson accompanied a party to the caverns. The group climbed for miles over ridges and down mountainsides without aid of trails to explore the caves. Equipped with candles, members of the party explored the caves as far back as the Ghost Room without difficulty. After several hours of exploration, looking into deep pits with invisible bottoms and marveling at the many formations, they started on their way out. In their wanderings, however, they lost their way. They stumbled, crawled and groped through narrow passageways for hours, meeting with no success. Finally one of the party accidentally found an old rotten string leading into the darkness. Frantically the amateur explorers followed the string and found themselves going down to a level they had not seen before. After tedious periods of crawling and sliding in extremely small passageways, they emerged at an opening now used for an entrance. McPherson believes the string had been used by some earlier visitors and possibly by a party which had been led several years before by Elijah Davidson, discoverer of the caves in 1874. In the half-century that has elapsed, visits in the underground realm of weird beauty have been made more enjoyable by the cutting of comfortable passageways, removal of obstructions, installation of ladders and illumination, construction of a new exit tunnel and completion of numerous other improvements. Medford Mail Tribune, September 25, 1936, page 14 UNITED STATES
Everyone who works at Oregon Caves National Monument owes his presence
there to the public, for the area was set aside to "promote the public
interests." This end is being fulfilled, whether the employee is
engaged in protective ranger work, conducting parties through the
Caves, serving in the Chateau, or doing maintenance--whether he is paid
by the federal government or the Oregon Caves Resort.DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR NATIONAL PARK SERVICE OREGON CAVES NATIONAL MONUMENT PROVISIONAL MANUAL OF INFORMATION Prepared by Harry C. Parker, Park Naturalist Crater Lake National Park June, 1953 I. STATEMENT FROM THE SUPERINTENDENT In the interest of knowing about the area in order to serve better and of dispensing accurate information to the public, with the Cave guides particularly in mind, this tentative manual has been prepared for the information and guidance of all concerned. John B. Wosky
Superintendent II. INTRODUCTION
This manual has been prepared to give a broader understanding of Oregon
Caves National Monument, its history, purpose, place in the national
scene, administration and natural features. It is believed that this
will enable all concerned with the operation of the Monument, whatever
their affiliation, to do a better job through being more fully informed.In the preparation of the material presented, the rangers and guides have been especially kept in mind, because protection hinges on understanding, and a cave trip can be no better than the interpretation furnished by the guide. However, every person working at the Monument is basically there for one purpose--to serve the public. Only the most salient features of the story of Oregon Caves appear here, mainly because of the need to get the manual into use in the shortest time, partly because there is much we do not yet know. The need for such a manual has become so manifest that we have done what we could with the time and facilities available. It will be recalled that this is a provisional manual and should be considered quite tentative. The next edition, for which work will have begun by the time this is in your hands, will contain additional material. It may also be changed in some respects due to more extensive information having been uncovered. The story is not static. There can be no final word. It is our duty to keep abreast of changes brought to light by fuller knowledge. Suggestions and questions are very much in order and should be submitted in writing to Ranger Turner, who will pass them on for consideration by the compiler of the next edition. Thanks are due members of the staffs of the Department of Geography and Geology, University of Oregon; Departments of Geography, Geology and Natural Resources, Oregon State College, for encouragement, advice and suggestions; and to the State Library, together with that at Oregon State College, for valuable aid with references and the loan of books. Several persons with experience at Oregon Caves as ranger or guide, or both, have been most helpful, as has the management of the Oregon Caves Resort. However, none of these persons or institutions is in any way responsible for any errors in the material presented here. Harry C. Parker
June 1, 1953Park Naturalist Crater Lake National Park III. HISTORY AND POLICY
The Oregon Caves have been known since one August day in 1874 when
Elijah Davidson, then living in the Williams Valley, went hunting. The
story goes that after wounding a bear, he followed it to an opening in
the rocks. Davidson hastily gathered a few splinters of pitch for a
torch, and, with an old muzzle-loading rifle, followed the bear. It was
then that he made his remarkable discovery of the Caves. "Old Dick"
Rowley was a close personal friend of Davidson, lived with him as a
neighbor in the Williams Valley for years, and knows this story well.Soon after this, the Caves became an attraction for the adventurous, and portions of them were explored and opened. Frank M. Nickerson, of Kerby, found four different levels in 1877 and opened a number of galleries which had been blocked by formations. In 1884 two brothers attempted to acquire title to the Caves by "squatting" at the lower entrance. They expended funds and labor in enlarging passages and expected eventually to gain title to this natural wonder and reap a harvest. The region, however, was then too remote, the nearest railroad being 200 miles away, and the "squatters claim" was abandoned. Later another attempt was made to open up and develop the Caves by a party of California promoters who dropped the plan after learning that the Caves were located in Oregon and not in California. In April, 1903, a large region in that part of Oregon and California was withdrawn from entry and named the Siskiyou National Forest. In 1907, two years before the establishment of Oregon Caves National Monument, the Caves were visited by Joaquin Miller (the Poet of the Sierra), C. B. Watson and Jefferson Meyers. They were deeply impressed, and Miller did much to attract public attention to the area by his many references to the Caves as "The Marble Halls of Oregon." President Taft, July 12, 1909, proclaimed the Oregon Caves, including a tract of 480 acres, approximately, as a National Monument, stating, "the public interests will be promoted by reserving these caves. . . ." Since there was no National Park Service at the time, the Monument was administered by the U.S. Forest Service, which administration continued until 1934, when it was turned over to the National Park Service and administration delegated to the Superintendent of Crater Lake National Park. Dick Rowley made his first trip through the Caves in 1908 with Elijah Davidson. He was intensely interested and made several trips later by himself. The place could only be reached by trail at that time. In 1910, he accepted the job as ranger in charge for the Forest Service, acting as fire guard, forest ranger and guide until 1922. During this period he did all the development work that was done in the Caves. With the formation of the present concessioner company in 1922, Dick was retained as chief guide until his retirement a few years ago. He still comes to the Caves on special occasions and helps new guides get oriented at the beginning of each season, though now past 80 years old. In 1922 the Forest Service granted a concession to the Oregon Caves Resort, which built the old Chalet and took over the guide service in 1923. In 1934 the Chateau was opened to the public. In the years following 1934, the National Park Service made a number of physical improvements to the facilities in and around the Caves. Oregon Caves is one of 173 National Parks, Monuments and allied areas comprising a system unique in the annals of civilization--wherein a federal government set aside priceless parts of our national heritage to be conserved for all the people for all time (See Appendix D). That system got its start more than 75 years ago when a group of average Americans voluntarily relinquished their legal and moral rights to profit through private ownership of what is now Yellowstone National Park, deciding instead to work for the reservation of the area as a park for all the people. The law requires that National Parks and Monuments be administered to provide for public enjoyment "in such manner and by such means as will leave them unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations." They are thus, in a sense, great outdoor museums, and that is why it is against the law to molest wildlife, plant life, cave formations and similar natural features that they contain. It is the responsibility of the Secretary of the Interior, the Director of the National Park Service and the administration offices of the various areas to preserve, develop and regulate the use of these areas. Mr. John B. Wosky is the Superintendent of Oregon Caves National Monument, and his representative, Ranger Paul D. Turner, is in immediate charge of the area. With approximately 85,000 visitors coming to the Monument each year, certain services and accommodations are needed for public convenience. The Oregon Caves Resort operates under a contract with the Secretary of the Interior to serve the needs of these people for a hotel, cabins, studio, food and facilities within the Caves. Mr. Richard L. Sabin is the manager of the company. In addition, the company is authorized to provide competent guides for conducting visitors through the caverns within the Monument. In this respect the contract is unique, in that the concessioner is the only private organization operating in the National Park System which is authorized to provide cavern guide service. This is performed by uniformed personnel of the National Park Service in other National Parks and Monuments having caves open to the public. The informational and guide service performed by National Park Service employees is internationally known for its excellence and the high quality of the information given out. It should be apparent, then, that the guides at Oregon Caves have a standard to measure up to. They work in one of the units of a system which has set a pattern for nature protection and interpretation eventually followed by other countries throughout the world. It is imperative that dignity be maintained and accurate information be given out. If they and all other employees grasp the true significance of the National Park idea, their work will mean far more to them than just a job. They will be proud to share in the responsibility of assisting the public to appreciate the natural values in Oregon Caves and contributing to the preservation of the Monument so as to leave it unimpaired for others to enjoy. IV. GEOLOGIC STORY IN BRIEF
The Mountains.In the heart of the Siskiyou Mountains is Mt. Elijah (5,225 ft.), where we find the Oregon Caves (Entrance 4,000 ft.). The Siskiyous lie between the Rogue and Klamath Rivers and extend west of the Cascades to the Pacific. Over a period of time, possibly between 180 and 150 million years ago, or in the Triassic Period, a shallow arm of the sea covered this area, where there were accumulated masses of volcanic rock. These contained smaller bodies of limestone, sandstone, shales and similar rocks derived from sediments that had been deposited on the sea bottom. Later came a period of mountain making, involving folding and uplifting of the rocks, due to stresses in the earth's crust and other forces. As a result of these processes, the limestone was changed by intense pressure and heat into marble, as exemplified by the narrow belt, tilted up on edge, running through Mt. Elijah. At the same time, the marble was profoundly fractured, and it is quite likely that this continued until a later period. Some of the more prominent fractures revealed in Oregon Caves are vertical, but in addition there are many minor cross-fractures of varying angles. For a long period following this, the mountains were slowly worn away by erosion until this was an area of low relief, near sea level. At this stage, the marble could have been well saturated with ground water. The area was then uplifted in various stages, giving us the Siskiyous of today. Indications are that this was mainly accomplished before the Ice Age, and that glaciers were formed locally in the higher mountains during the latter period. The Caves The study of caves is often given the name speleology, and those professionally competent in the subject are known as speleologists. In recent years, devotees of cave exploration and study, as an avocation, have called themselves "spelunkers." Caves are in general classified according to the rock in which they developed. They may be formed in limestone, sandstone, or igneous rocks, such as volcanics. Of these, limestone caves are the most important and most frequently attain great size. Oregon Caves represent a type found in limestone formations throughout the world, but are of special interest in that they have been formed in tilted strata of marble, which is limestone altered to its crystalline form. There can be little question that the cavities were produced by the action of underground water dissolving the marble and carrying it away. This solution was initiated along cracks and joints until pockets were finally formed and these in turn enlarged to what are now galleries or rooms. It would seem that the caverns at some time were completely or partly filled with standing water and the level of this water varied with that of the adjacent surface streams. As the streams deepened their valleys, this level would have been lowered, through drainage, allowing solution to take place at progressively lower levels within the marble. As the level of water dropped, galleries above were emptied. These appear to have been only slightly altered by streams flowing through them afterward. What stream work does appear has not greatly modified the spongelike cave pattern produced by solution. Further, this general pattern of several-storied, honeycomb chambers does not conform to the branchwork that might be produced by free-running subterranean streams. This is but a tentative account, and the whole story needs detailed study by a competent geologist, in the light of modern knowledge about cave formation in limestone. Some of the points mentioned here will be referred to below, under "Progressive Cave Trip Comments" (Section V). The marble is said to be 93% calcium carbonate (CaCO₃), which is soluble in plain water. However, if the water picks up carbon dioxide, the carbonic acid solution thus produced makes the calcium carbonate several times easier to dissolve. Rain water, as it percolates down through the soil, becomes charged with carbonic and other acids, derived from decaying vegetation and other sources. It finds its way along small fracture planes in the marble, dissolving out the calcium carbonate. The carbonate dissolved thus in one place is redeposited wherever the water is subjected to evaporation. This occurred in the various cavities as the underground water in them was drained away and they became air filled. Particularly, where the water dripped slowly from the ceiling of a cavern, each drop, as it clung to the rock, lost some of its water to the air, and the calcite which it carried was left as a deposit on the rock. Each successive drop added its increment to the previous one, and gradually an icicle-like stalactite was formed. Where the drops of water fell to the floor and there evaporated, a pillar known as a stalagmite was made. In some places a stalactite and stalagmite eventually joined, forming a column that extends from floor to ceiling. By alteration of the volume and path of the water, drapery-like blades and fluting were produced. On the sides, where water ran down the walls, are layered deposits, sometimes known as travertine or flowstone. There are many forms taken by these deposits in Oregon Caves. A practical term to use for them collectively is dripstone. The process of deposition is still going on at varying rates, so that we can ascribe no time for deposition that will apply equally to all the formations. It should be borne in mind that marble is merely altered limestone and that both of these, together with dripstone, are kinds of a mineral known as calcite, which has the chemical composition CaCO₃. It is also found in the Caves as free calcite crystals. However, since there are differences between all these in the external form that they take, it is inaccurate to say that they are all the same and use the terms interchangeably. The term "lime" is best abandoned in the cave story, for, while it is thus used freely by mining men, in the minds of visitors "lime" means the commercial products known by that name, which have different chemical compositions and different properties. This geologic account should have indicated that a great many variable factors enter into the making of caves in limestone, and, therefore, specific comparisons cannot always be made between caves. This should be a guide in answering questions from visitors such as "In Blank Cave they told us the stalactites grew one cubic inch a century, but you say these don't all grow at the same rate?" or, "Why aren't Oregon Caves as large as Carlsbad Caverns?" In the latter instance, the limestone is softer and older; is not severely tilted and marbleized; contains some masses of salt or gypsum, which dissolve much more easily than does calcite; and has a system of joints which would make it easier for the solution formation of chambers. The general processes of solution cave formation, however, are becoming better understood and made more widely applicable as more and more caves are studied critically by geologists. That is why we can infer certain things about the history of Oregon Caves, because of certain recognizable signs that match those found in other caves where the story is more completely told in the rocks. V. PROGRESSIVE CAVE TRIP COMMENTS
FOREWORDA cave trip can be no better than the interpretation furnished by the guide, which begins with his neat appearance and good manners, for acceptance of his story hinges upon the impression that he makes. The people in your party have paid to be shown the features of the cave and learn the story told by these. This does not mean that your tour has to be a "nature talk," but folks are entitled to know the salient facts about the natural history of the Caves. It is no crime to say "I don't know" to a question that you have had no way of obtaining the answer for, but it is a betrayal of trust to bluff answers or deliberately misinform your patrons and guests. They can be made to understand that there is much that we don't know yet, without the guide "losing face." Nor does this mean that you should give a solemn "spiel" throughout the trip, with no pleasant touches. But, when facts are given as facts, they should be accurate. Horseplay, flippancy and impertinence will not be tolerated. They are an insult to the intelligence of your paying guests. The average person visiting a cave for the first time anticipates mystery, adventure and even romance. Such an attitude has led, at times, to exaggeration of the history and physical characteristics of the Caves in "tall tales" by the guides. Such exploitation of the visitors' attitude is still a practice in many privately owned caves, but is definitely frowned upon by the National Park Service, to which most of the complaints that may come will in all probability be addressed. The real story of Oregon Caves is romantic and impressive enough to satisfy the visitor's desire for spectacular information if the guide does a good job. Use judgment in giving your story after sizing up the party. If you have a 300 pounder, probably no comment should be made at the "Fat Man's Squeeze," or if there are foreigners or colored persons, no so-called humorous allusions should be made that might prove offensive to them. Make sure that the persons in the rear of your group are enjoying their trip and not having to rush along at a headlong clip. Above all, don't place a sweet young lady immediately behind you and devote all your efforts to making an impression on her. Remember the rest of the group also paid to see the Caves and hear the interpretive story. The study and use of the comments given below are obligatory. However, the wording of them may be changed to conform to the speaking style of the individual guide, who should vary his delivery on different trips for the sake of his own interest and to prevent sounding like a carnival "barker" to each party. In addition to the cave trip comments, every guide will study thoroughly the geologic story (Section IV) which is necessary to understand the comments and be able to give intelligent answers to many questions. Again, don't bluff or give half-baked explanations. Finally, never forget the safety of your party. You, individually, the government and the Oregon Caves Resort, can be held liable for accidents and injuries that occur due to your improper acts and negligence. You will be indoctrinated by your supervisor as to the mechanics of organizing and conducting your parties, and they will be touched upon very little here. (Material in parentheses is for your information, to be used as circumstances may warrant.) DETAILED COMMENTS These are based on verbatim transcriptions of talks given by "Old Dick" Rowley, who successfully guided thousands of visitors through the Caves for nearly half a century. At the Entrance (Don't give the impression of being rushed. The way your trip succeeds will depend a great deal on how you set the mood at the beginning. This speech is important, or you wouldn't have to make it. It is in your best interests. If you spew it off and dash into the cave, many of the group will not have taken in what you said and the effort will have been wasted. The entrance speech can be effectively given in a minute and a half if the speaker pauses at the proper places.) Good Morning (Afternoon, Evening). My name is _________. May I have your tickets, please. I should like to remind you that Oregon Caves is a National Monument, part of the National Park System, and that, by Act of Congress, it is unlawful to break off any of the formations, mark or mar the Caves in any way or bring out anything with you. I am sure that we will have a pleasant trip, but I want to remind you to be very careful, because neither the National Park Service nor the Oregon Caves Resort wants you to be involved in any accidents to mar your visit. There is no reason for alarm about this, for, since 1923, we have guided hundreds of thousands of people through the Caves with no serious accidents. If this gentleman will please take this flashlight--I don't think we'll need it, but he can be our tail light. Please stay in single file between me and the tail light. Now, as we go in, please watch out and don't bump your heads. (Note: It is of questionable legal value to make the bare statement, "The National Park Service and the Oregon Caves Resort cannot be responsible for any accidents in the Caves.") Watson's Grotto If you will notice, right up over your head, that big crevice up there. The ground water found its way through such crevices and dissolved away the marble, which is what formed the Caves. (If you look up to the right, there is a cut with sponge-like structure and side pockets which indicate that Cave Creek is now flowing along a previously made pattern, which was not entirely stream cut. Note: This is not a mountain entirely made of marble.) Petrified Gardens Turning around and looking back in that little room, we find the Petrified Gardens. You notice the formations--they resemble cabbage and different vegetables. These little fellows growing on the ceiling are stalactites. Down on the floor here they are stalagmites. The stalactites and stalagmites are built up from the same material and from the same cause. This marble that the Caves are in is 93% calcium carbonate and these little drops that you see on the ends of the stalactites are water from the ground above, which has found its way down through this marble and carrying the calcium carbonate in solution. When it reaches the ceiling, the water is reduced by evaporation, leaving a bit of calcium deposit on the ceiling. Each drop adds its bit and so the stalactite grows. Where drops of water fall to the floor and evaporate there, a stalagmite is built up. In some places the stalactites and stalagmites join, forming a column. Those drapery-like blades are formed by the water coming in a slanting direction and probably in greater volume. Tree Root The roots that you see here are the roots of a Douglas Fir that is growing forty feet above on the surface. They did not penetrate the solid marble to get here. They found little crevices previously filled with clay and followed them down, then extended for some 25 feet along the passageway. The tree is living forty feet above us. Bear Pit In 1874 Elijah Davidson wounded a bear which sought refuge in the Caves. Davidson, being handicapped for light, used a few splinters of pitch (wood) to make a torch, came in and killed his bear in this pit. This was the discovery of the Caves. (Various pioneers explored it and opened up the passageways that were blocked by formations in the early days, until, in 1909, the Caves and surrounding area to the extent of 480 acres were placed under government protection when President William Howard Taft proclaimed the place to be a National Monument.) River Styx As soon as this little stream reaches the surface outside, it is called Cave Creek, but in here we give it the fanciful name of the River Styx. You may recall that, in Greek mythology, the Styx was the stream that Charon used to ferry the lost souls across to Hades, from which they never returned. Well, we bring you across the bridge here and are usually successful in getting 90% of the folks back again, the people who come here are so good. (Cave Creek originates in the Caves; visitors follow it along the road outside.) Devil's Cradle Right there above you, you will notice how the water has carved out beneath the great shelf of marble and also how it has carved out from above it and left a projection out on the edge. That is the Devil's Cradle. Its smoothness and rounded inside indicates that possibly it is what is left of the channel cut by a stream course that once wandered back and forth at that level. (If the direction of curve is reconstructed, it would appear that this stream, and probably all streams through the Caves, were secondary to the formation of the Caves--the general pattern of the Caves does not match the kind of pattern that streams would make.) Passageway of the Whale Notice the narrow crevice lengthwise of the room overhead. It is just such crevices as this that furnished the water to carve out our passageways. This little crevice would furnish only a certain amount, but many other crevices throughout the marble furnished quantities of water and in the course of a long time this great passageway was carved out, perhaps with the assistance of underground streams. (It is possible that geologists may find that the upper part of this passageway was cut out by a stream after the main caves were dissolved out and filled with clay, then a secondary stream came along washing out the top of the clay and forming the curved part, or that the upper part represents upward solution by water in a cavity partially filled with clay. No competent man has passed final opinion.) Many folks find that this resembles the interior of a whale, and so it is known as the Whale Passageway. Tunnel Now we go through a man-made tunnel, constructed so as to save 80 feet of ladder climbing. It was constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps before the war. Adam's Tomb Before the tunnel was made, we could not show you this room. Right here, looking above your head, you will see the reflection of a light and a handrail. We will make a complete loop on to a natural bridge and when we are up there we can look right down where we are standing. (The pockets and vertical grooves seen in this room indicate that it was formed by groundwater and not by a stream. Likewise, the natural bridge and the several levels, forming a honeycomb-like cross section, are not the pattern that would normally be made by stream action. The latter would be more smoothly joined, and if it cut all those levels, probably could not leave a natural bridge.) On the wall in front of us is one of the lowest types of life. This is called algae (pronounced "algy") and was not found anywhere in the Caves until the lights were installed. For a time, it was believed that the heat caused the growth, but since certain colored lights do not show this growth in the Caves, it is believed that the ultraviolet or other rays necessary for plant growth brought it about. Now we will climb above. Looking down where we were just a few minutes ago, we have climbed 18 feet. We have been climbing ever since we started, now having gained 80 feet. Wigwam Notice over there, on the wall, a couple of eyes, a nose and a mouth. In order to call this the Wigwam, we have to call that "Chief Rain-in-the-face." See the outline of the camel over on the wall? That outline is caused by the natural cracks and jointing in the rock. Since the marble of this cave once lay almost horizontal as limestone and was later folded and thrust up until it was changed to marble, by heat and pressure, and the main joints were almost vertical, many cracks and crevices were made in the marble, which is just a crystalline form of limestone (Don't say "lime.") Paul Bunyan (It is a question whether many visitors know what is meant when you say that "Babe is down on the Redwood Highway." Comments from some visitors indicate that this "corny" joke is better left out. We all don't have "Old Dick's" personality, which made the joke go over.) We have thirty feet to climb to the upper caves. Beehive Right up on the wall, there, that looks like a big hornet nest with a little hole for the insects to enter. It was for this reason that this room was named "The Beehive." We have here a good example of how flowstone, or cave deposits, can build up. Not all the calcium carbonate is formed into stalactites or stalagmites. Here there was a greater volume of water, probably with more of the carbonate in it. Fat Man's Squeeze Upper Entrance (110 feet above the entrance) One of the two natural openings that lead into the Caves. It was once used as an exit, but now we have a man-made tunnel that saves us from climbing back up here. (The old exit appears to be the remains of a sinkhole. Perhaps it once drained the upper caverns into Cave Creek, when its valley was up at this level, before the creek cut down to its present depth.) We will not see daylight again for awhile (estimate the time), for there is lots more to see underground. White House Banana Room and Coral Gardens Coral-like effect is due to calcite crystals thought to have been deposited by the air being saturated with mineral (Halactites?). On the left, on the way to the Jailhouse, is a water-worn curve that may have been made by one of the secondary streams. Young Stalagmite Jailhouse A solution cavity that was lined with flowstone, then the water circulation changed (?) so that columns were formed in front, making the "bars." An example here of plant growth induced by the light. Niagara Falls The resemblance of this formation to the falls enables people to name it before we get a chance to tell them about it. A typical example of flowstone, where quite a volume of calcium carbonate-bearing water came in, making extensive deposits. Before the Caves were set aside as a National Monument, people came in here and wrote their names on the formations. Here we see one made in 1881. It is now covered by a deposit. See, you can't rub the writing off. It has been estimated that it is covered by about 100th of an inch of calcium carbonate. While that means that the deposit here is being built up at the rate of about 100th of an inch every 50 or 60 years, we can't say that all the formations in the Caves were built up at that same rate and thus estimate their age, because the dissolving strength of the water varies with the amount of carbonic acid, and how much rock it has traveled through to pick up the calcium to deposit when the water evaporates. (Deposition also depends upon how much water seeps through at a time and how much evaporating surface there is. It is impossible to correlate the age of the formations with the Ice Age, and the glaciers did not carve out the Caves, though meltwaters may have seeped down and formed secondary streams after the major pattern of the Caves was set.) Note the seeps coming through the joints in the rocks, showing how the waters of deposition get down to the caverns. Nebu-chad-nezzar's Throne Room (King's Throne Room) Up in the end of the room where the light is shining, see King Nebuchadnezzar in the center? Also, there is the Hanging Garden of Babylon. The Ballroom An instance of where a rimstone of deposit was formed at the edge of a little pool and the water held behind it solidified. (Call it Fairy Dancehall and tell that they dance at midnight, if you like.) Neptune's Grotto You remember that Neptune was King of the Seas. There is his daughter taking a bath under the fountain. According to mythology, his little daughter was named Lotus, for the flower. There is little Lotus. (The sponge-like nature of the cave pattern is well demonstrated here. It appears that the solution was not performed by streams.) Now we are going down a couple of ladders here for about 25 feet. We think the safest way to go down steep ladders is to face the ladder, so we can hold on with both hands on the rails as we go down. I wish you would all do that, please. Petrified Forest The place to tell the story of stalagmites. Just before you get to the Grand Column, be sure to point out the place on the right wall where solution has taken place around joints and bedding planes. This is probably how the solution water first gets a good start at cavern-making. Such channels eventually ran together, forming pockets, then the pockets got bigger, etc. Grand Column A stalactite has grown down from the ceiling to a point within about two feet of the floor and has joined with a stalagmite that has grown up from the bottom. The column is about 7 feet in height and a foot through at the narrowest place. (Don't try to give an estimate of its age.) (Caution about low ceilings) Wishing Post A tradition is to rub your left hand three times over the top of it and your wish is supposed to come true. Joaquin Miller's Chapel Some of you folks may have heard of Joaquin Miller, known as "Poet of the Sierra." He and a party of friends were here in 1907, and he became very enthusiastic about the Caves, referring to them as the "Marble Halls of Oregon." In 1909, when the National Monument was created, this room was dedicated as Joaquin Miller's Chapel, in recognition of what he had done to bring public attention to the Caves and other features of the Coast States. Here we have a completed column and one in the process of growing. If they were to join, we would have a gateway. Behind it is one of the best stalagmites in the Caves, known as the Washington Monument. The jointing of the rock is again brought out here. (Show small pool with skim of lime carbonate, demonstrating how rimstone and flowstone can be created in such pockets, the vase of flowers, Garden of the Gods, Mt. Shasta, the heaviest one of all, and the twin stalagmites (Kate and Duplicate!). Head Hunter's Trophy Room (three skulls) Caution about 13 steps. (Lion's Head) Atlantic Ocean Kneel down and look across. Next is Chesapeake Bay. Devil's Washboard. (These formations have not been fully explained. Some believe that they formed that way as flowstone. Appearance also gives the impression that they are the result of part of the stone being more resistant to solution than the rest. It is being checked into, but the answer may not be given before next year.) Cave Man (Mention the Cave Men of Grants Pass, a nationally known organization that dresses as people suppose cavemen to have dressed. They greet famous visitors, such as presidential candidates, and initiate them. The club was formed to promote interest in the area.) Calcite Crystals A formation made up of a type of calcite (not "lime," nor should "lime" be added to the "calcite") which takes a six-sided form, with the light shining through for a lovely effect. The tiny crystals on the surface may plainly be seen. Calcite takes more crystal forms than any other mineral. This is but one. Cudjo's (Kudgel's) Cave Look around behind you. Notice, all around, the black passages that lead off in every direction and the huge jagged rocks all over the floor and the jagged walls. That is what one would imagine that cave would look like, and it was named after one in a book by that title. (Also, hard to imagine such a cave to be made in tilted marble by stream action alone.) GHOST ROOM One of the largest rooms in the Caves and the rest of the trip is involved with some part of it. It is 40 feet high, 50 feet wide and 300 feet long. You can see the ghosts across from you, but have no fear of them. Wave to them, and they wave right back. They are afraid of light and disappear when a light is turned on. (Don't overplay this pleasant touch and get "corny.") On the left is the dike (about which guides have asked). It sticks out from the wall, like a large, continuous blade. It is made up of a clay mineral containing partially rounded grains of quartz and possibly feldspar, and undoubtedly came from the outside. It has been described as a clastic dike, which would mean that it is a fissure filling, forced in by hydraulic pressure. The white covering is the regular cave deposit. (Be careful not to call this simply a "dike," which is usually igneous, or volcanic, in origin, being a molten mass that was forced into a crack under the surface. It definitely was not "pushed down by the glaciers," as one guide was glibly heard to tell his party. These facts seem probable to authorities at the University of Oregon, who made tentative identification of the nature of the material but have not seen the dike in place. Remember, say that it is considered as a clastic dike, but is under study.) The large rocks on the floor appear to have fallen there from the roof. (Fresh jointing is evident in this room in a number of places.) Widowmaker rock. We are going to put out the lights for a moment and let you experience total darkness (hold on to railing). Move your hand before your eyes and you will prove that you can't see anything. Paradise Lost Before starting the climb up the stairs, look at the mother owl and the two little owls. Here is the Jaws of Death and, overhead, the Dinosaur. Warn people that on the 13th step to watch out for Headache Rock. Note the five great cones in line, and on the right how everything has taken the form of a fungus, and to the left, everything is rounded out on top and all three of the formations have extended from the floor to the ceiling. This is considered the prettiest spot in the Caves. On the floor, new "Atlantic and Pacific Oceans" are forming. Now I am going to put on some colored lights for a moment for a beautiful effect. Of course, the white light showed the formations best. Before we go back to the Ghost Room, I may say that we are at the farthest point we will reach on our trip in the Caves. We are 3300 feet directly in and 1600 feet vertically from the top of the mountain. It is impossible for a ray of natural light to penetrate in to here. Dante's Inferno Now, up that ladder where you see the light up there. Here we get a view of what Dante had in mind when he wrote the great poem "The Inferno," in which, in a dream, he saw the lost souls down in Hades being punished in a river of fire and then for further punishment the scene turned to an icy, frigid mass, and then back to inferno again. On our way up this ladder here if you will notice where my hand is forming a shadow on the wall you can see the shadow of the devil himself, right here in Hades. On the second ladder that we are climbing you will notice over to your left, where I am standing, the little "bird of paradise." Just over his head be sure to look for a little worm which he has been waiting a long time to get. At this point on our trip, years ago, it was necessary to go back to the last place where we saw daylight to get out of the Caves again. However, now we have this tunnel, 512 feet long, which takes us to the surface through the side of the mountain. This also helps to handle the large crowds that come during the summer season. Notice how the sound echoes? That is because we do not have the extensive formations that have formed through the years back in the Caves, yet even here a tiny stalactite is beginning to form. Here is a natural room that was struck when the government drove the tunnel through here. There must be many more rooms like this throughout the marble deposits in the mountain. (Note: It is incorrect to call the whole mountain a "mountain of marble"--it has other components that anyone can see.) At the Exit Here we are, on the outside again. You are looking to the west. The entrance is 218 feet below us. You can return to the starting point or the Chateau a quarter of a mile down this trail. If you wish, you may sit here and smoke or rest awhile and look over the Siskiyous. There is no smoking allowed while you are traveling on the trail. Thank you for your attention during the trip, and I hope that you enjoyed it. (Note: If you conduct the party, or members of it, down the trail, you will have the same obligations toward their safety as you had within the Caves. Remember to collect the flashlight from the "taillight.") VI. OTHER SIGNIFICANT FEATURES OF THE MONUMENT
In addition to the Caves, the area has other outstanding scientific
values, particularly in the botanical field, where we find certain rare
species. Most famous of these are the weeping (Brewer's) spruce, the
MacNab cypress, and kalmiopsis with creeping habit and
rhododendron-like blossoms, boxleaved bitterbush, Marshall's currant,
Sadler's oak and huckleberry oak.Natural stands of Port Orford cedar, one of our most graceful native trees, are important features. Other plants include the snow plant, Hartweg's wild ginger, with beautifully mottled leaves, the many-flowered bitterroot and the phantom orchid. The rangers place labels on many of the plants along the trails that lead out of the central area. The discovery of certain plants in this area is a source of interest to scientists who deal with plant distribution. The composition of the associated species of the area is so singular that it attracts the attention of authorities, since many species find the Caves area the southern limit of their range, while species otherwise limited to California find here the northern limit of their range. Last, but not least, in interest are the little plant colonies, mostly of simple types like algae and mosses, growing in the depths of the Caves under electric lights that receive their ultraviolet radiation from this source, and which do not grow under bulbs of certain colors. The large gray jays that come so readily to be fed at the Chalet are the gray jay, a race of the Canada jay, "whiskey-jack," or "camp robber." The blue jays with the topknot are Steller jays. It is entirely inaccurate to call them "blue jays." At the same place, vying for peanuts, are golden-mantled ground squirrels, often mistakenly thought to be chipmunks, but they are much larger and do not have stripes on the face. The Siskiyou chipmunks also come there, and it will be readily noted that they are smaller, have smaller feet, more pointed noses and stripes run along the sides of the face. The large, gray squirrels with brown patches between the shoulders are the Douglas ground squirrel. Bats have been observed in the Caves, but it is not at present known what kind they were. There are no large colonies that pour out of the entrance like smoke, as at Carlsbad Caverns. Bats are not blind. No blind animals are recorded in park files from the Caves. Perhaps it should have been mentioned first, rather than last, that the rugged, forested, wild beauty of the spot, where there is no logging, hunting, trapping or grazing, presents a charm that is of the utmost attractiveness to those who visit from places not so well endowed with wild land as Oregon. VII. SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY
Bretz, J. H.1940. "Solution Cavities in Joliet Limestone." Journal Geology--page 337. 1942. "Vadose and Phreatic Features of Limestone Caverns." Journal Geology 50--page 675-811. 1949. "Carlsbad and Other Caves of the Guadalupe Block." Journal Geology 57 (5)--page 447-463. Butcher, D. 1951. "Exploring our National Parks and Monuments." Houghton Mifflin, Boston. Davis, W. M. 1930. "Origin of Limestone Caves." Bulletin Geology Society of America 41--page 475-628 Diller, J. S. 1894. "Tertiary Revolution in the Topography of the Pacific Coast." U.S.G.S. 14th Annual Report--Part II--page 397-434 (map). 1902. Topographic Development of the Klamath Mountains. U.S.G.S. Bulletin 196. 1903. Port Orford Folio--U.S.G.S. 1907. "Mesozoic Sediments of Southwestern Oregon." American Journal of Science (4) 23: page 401-421 1914. Mineral Resources in Southwestern Oregon. U.S.G.S. Bulletin 546 1922. Chromite in the Klamath Mountains, California & Oregon. U.S.G.S. Bulletin 725 ------ and Kay, G. F. 1909. Mineral Resources of the Grants Pass Quadrangle and Bordering Districts, Oregon. U.S.G.S. Bulletin 380. Fenneman, N. M. 1931. Physiography of Western U.S. McGraw-Hill, New York Finch, B. R. 1934. Report on Oregon Caves. Typescript in Crater Lake National Park Library Garrels, R. M. 1952 (?). Textbook of Geology. Harper and Brothers, New York Lahee, F. H. 1931. Field Geology. McGraw-Hill, New York Louderback, G. D. 1905. "Mesozoic of Southwestern Oregon." Journal Geology 13--page 514-555. Oregon State Planning Board 1936. Bibliography of Geology and Mineral Resources of Oregon (to July 1, 1936). 1947. Supplement by Oregon Dept. Geology and Mineral Resources (July 1, 1936 to December 31, 1945, by Allen, J. E. et al.). 1953. Second Supplement by Dept. Geology and Mineral Resources (January 1, 1946 to December 31, 1950, by Steere, M. L.). Schuchert and Dunbar 1939 (?). Historical Geology. John Wiley and Sons (?) N.Y. Stone, R. W. 1949. "Origin of Caves." National Speleological Society Bulletin No. 11, page 3-7, Washington, D.C. Tilden, F. 1951. The National Parks--What They Mean to You and Me. Knopf, N.Y. Wells, F. G., et al. 1939. Preliminary Geology Map Medford Quadrangle, Oregon. Oregon Dept. Geology and Mineral Industries, Portland. 1940. Preliminary Geology Map of Grants Pass Quadrangle, Oregon. Oregon Dept. Geology and Mineral Industries, Portland. 1949. Preliminary Description of Geology of (Mineral) Kerby Quadrangle, Oregon. (IMPORTANT for dating Applegate formation, in which marble of Oregon Caves is found.) Oregon Dept. Geology and Mineral Industries, Portland. Williams, I.A. 1914. "Limestone Deposits in Oregon." Oregon Bureau Mines, Mineral Res. 1, 7:52-70. 1920. "Remarkable Marble Halls." Natural History Magazine 20, N.Y. Winchell, A. N. 1914. "Limestone Deposits of Oregon." Oregon Bureau Mines, Mineral Res. 1, 5:265 pp. Wind Cave National Park 1949. Ranger's Manual, Revised. Mimeographed. Hot Springs, S.D. Yeager 1947. Your Western National Parks. Dodd, Mead, N.Y. VIII. APPENDIX A--WHO'S WHO
IX. APPENDIX B--REGULATIONS IN BRIEF
It is unlawful to disturb, mar, mark or remove any formation,
stalactite, stalagmite, or other mineral from the confines of the
Monument.Plant and animal life are absolutely protected. It is unlawful to tease, disturb or molest the animals or living or standing plant life. Hunting and trapping are forbidden. No one can enter the Caves without a regular guide. Children under six years old are not allowed to take the trips. Guides can enter only in line of duty connected with guiding parties. Cave exploration is not allowed. (This means no "wiggle" parties, whether with guides or not.) Dogs, cats and other pets must be kept under positive physical restraint at all times and then only in certain areas (see a Ranger). Unsealed firearms are not allowed on the Monument. There is no camping overnight on the Monument. Fires are permissible in the picnic area only. No smoking is allowed on trails outside the Caves during the fire season (see a Ranger). Violating these regulations is violating the law. X. APPENDIX C--ROADS AND TRAILS
Road Mileages
Trails
XI. APPENDIX D--NATIONAL PARK SYSTEM IN BRIEF
The Act of Congress, August 25, 1916, to establish the National Park
Service, defines the fundamental purpose of the Service to be as
follows: "The Service thus established shall promote and regulate the
use of the federal areas known as national parks, monuments and
reservations * * * by such means * * * as conform to the fundamental
purpose * * * which * * * is to conserve the scenery and the natural
and historic objects and the wildlife therein and to provide for the
enjoyment of the same in such manner * * * as will leave them
unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations."Types of Areas Administered by the National Park Service
Also, 4 National Recreation Areas, such as at Coulee Dam, Washington and 1 National Historic Site administered by agreement with the Department of Defense. Oregon Department of Geology |
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